So my 2014 Coupe has been cranking «slow» for the last few months. I assumed the crappy Die Hard battery was failing, so I threw a set of jumper cables in the back and forgot about it. Haven’t been driving the car a lot, anyway. Went to run an errand last night, was worried the car might not start, but it cranked twice slowly, and kicked off running as it had been doing. Took the long way to the Cigar store to give it extra time to recharge. Parked it, went in to buy my box and shoot the shit for 10 minutes. Went back out, cranked the car, I got maybe half a crank and it refused to crank further. Fuck. Got out the cables and tried to jump it. No joy. Had to have it flat bedded to the local dealership.
Weird thing was, if I connected the jumpers at the jump-point in the engine bay, I’d get sparks. But if I connected the cables to the battery in back, I wouldn’t. Yet all the lighting was working and, in fact, the headlights were bright. The DIC reported 11.6V. Even with the jumper cables connected. And if I tried to crank the car, all the lighting would go dark but I didn’t get any noise from the Starter, no clicks or anything. Of course I was parked where it was impossible to try and push start it so I didn’t try that (MN6).
So now I’m waiting to hear back from the dealership. I’m thinking either the starter motor shit the bed or the motor is seized.
Anyone want to take a guess which?
1968 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016
I’m gonna hope that it’s a cheap set of jumper cables and that the connection wasn’t solid enough to make it start.
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643 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
Motor is not seized and your starter is most likely fine. Your battery is dead. Lights will work with less than 12 volts, but starter needs over 12 to turn.
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710 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
Motor is not seized and your starter is most likely fine. Your battery is dead. Lights will work with less than 12 volts, but starter needs over 12 to turn.
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Cell most likely going bad in the battery and a warm car can put more of a load on the starter due to tighter clearances.
2012 V Coupe, Diamond White, Light Titanium, at, K&N FIPK and Borla Mufflers. That’s all for now.
P.S. Lots of other cars, but only about two that run at any one time, the rest keep breaking
884 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
My guess is the battery. Possibly the alternator? I damn sure wouldn’t have taken it to the Stealership first tho, but that’s me
Lucille THE 2012 Black V Coupe
2316 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
could have popped one of the high amp fuse’s also with voltage being that low
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5500 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
I would have bought a battery and tried that first.
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RocketSled Discussion starter
3403 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
I tried a Jump Box to no effect. Then I tried a Sierra 1500 with jumper cables to no effect. I let the car sit connected with the jumpers for 30 minutes to no effect. When the flatbed showed up, the driver insisted on trying his Jump Box to no effect. I know was I getting a connection up front because the Jump Box meter reading would drop when I got a good connection (and I got the sparks you’d expect to see when connecting Jumpers). Turn the key to ON, power seemed to be fine. Turn the key to crank the motor, all the lights shut off exterior, interior, dash. But the only clicking you could hear were a few relays. No noise at all from the Starter. It behaved like a dead battery but that assumption seems invalid given connecting external power made no difference to how it behaved.
I did replace the battery last spring. And a few weeks later the car behaved like the battery was dead. However, I discovered the stupid positive battery terminal clamp was loose (because it’s stupid the way it’s designed. Gimme a friggin’ nut I can crank down on, please, not some stupid spring loaded lever thing). It started cranking slow towards the Fall. I initially guessed my problem last night was that the clamp was loose again, but no, it’s on the positive terminal good and tight, can’t budge it.
710 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
A jump box and cables will get full voltage to a discharged battery but will still not get enough amps to turn the engine over if the original battery is damaged internally (say a cell sulfating or a strap corroding) pretty much have to replace the battery before it will work. Of course, loose cables with give similar results.
2012 V Coupe, Diamond White, Light Titanium, at, K&N FIPK and Borla Mufflers. That’s all for now.
P.S. Lots of other cars, but only about two that run at any one time, the rest keep breaking
884 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
Every time I think it’s not the battery, it’s the battery! Just me tho
Lucille THE 2012 Black V Coupe
57 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
This is the truth. Bad Battery and Loose battery connections cause all kinds of problems.
RocketSled Discussion starter
3403 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
That’d be nice if it’s just the Die Hard (easy) battery. But if the battery had an open cell, I wouldn’t have gotten any lights when I turned the key to ON. And if it was a shorted cell, I wouldn’t have seen 11.6V on the DIC, it would have been lower. An open cell would explain why I didn’t get sparks when I connected the Jumper to the battery terminals. But it can’t be an open cell since the battery was still producing some juice.
Got my fingers crossed, though. Nothing to do but speculate until they call me and tell me what they found.
884 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
Ok so I admit I’m a very cynical guy, but trust me, the stealership will find a whole lot wrong with it!
Listen to timan, this gen has issues.
Lucille THE 2012 Black V Coupe
14233 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
on a much less complicated electrical system I had a car with a battery only a few months old.
Would crank, not start, lights worked, etc
I tried everything, changed the starter twice.
My friend said «your battery is bad». I said no way its only a few months old and its cranking fine just not starting
Brought it in for a replacement under warranty and the guy load tests it- it tests fine says he isnt replacing it.
I said please test each cell — sure enough one bad cell.
Went home and that damn car started right up.
I know you were at a cigar shop but I would have tried a battery first, its not like you didnt need one anyhow.
5500 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
This second generation CTS has the most finicky electronics I have ever known (well, maybe my MGB with Lucas electronics was more of a bitch, but Lucas electronics either worked or didn’t). Over on the standard CTS forum we talk about electronics a lot. And a bad or low charge battery is quite often the cause. Batteries are the first thing we talk about with electrical issues. It applies here as well.
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1879 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011
GM designed the group 101 battery for the first CTS-V to keep Delco/Delphi in business.
It sure wasn’t a better battery.
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1968 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016
Did the DIC read 11.9 with the jumper connected?
2011 A6, DDP 4.5″, 2.35 Upper/8.66 Lower, NW102TB, Jokerz Ported Snout/Blower, GP Tuning 2.5 Cam, WCCH 2.5 Heads, Johnson 2110’s, BTR Springs, BTR Trunnion kit, Manton 11/32 PR, ID1050X, CRH 1-7/8 Headers with 3″ X-pipe, 22″ resonators, QTP’s, Track Attack HX, CW100, TR7IX, Accel 9070C’s, MM Wild Can, AEM 30-0334, DW300C’s, Pat G tune, E50, VS-Forged Wheels
883 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012
Similar thing happened to me a couple years ago. It had been cranking kinda slow. Then, all of the sudden at the airport of all places, I came back from a trip and nothing. Electronics on, all that, but no cranking. Tried jumping it with another car and a jumper box. Had to have FOUR tow trucks come until they finally listened to me that a flatbed couldn’t get into the parking garage and I needed a traditional tow truck. At any rate, went to the dealer, new starter and good to go.
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RocketSled Discussion starter
3403 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
Sounds like my problem. I was leaning strongly in that direction already.
Dealership didn’t get back to me today, so I’m assuming they haven’t started the car. No big deal. Not like I wanted to make some poor sap work late to try and figure it out and get it done on Christmas Eve.
56 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
So my 2014 Coupe has been cranking «slow» for the last few months. I assumed the crappy Die Hard battery was failing, so I threw a set of jumper cables in the back and forgot about it. Haven’t been driving the car a lot, anyway. Went to run an errand last night, was worried the car might not start, but it cranked twice slowly, and kicked off running as it had been doing. Took the long way to the Cigar store to give it extra time to recharge. Parked it, went in to buy my box and shoot the shit for 10 minutes. Went back out, cranked the car, I got maybe half a crank and it refused to crank further. Fuck. Got out the cables and tried to jump it. No joy. Had to have it flat bedded to the local dealership.
Weird thing was, if I connected the jumpers at the jump-point in the engine bay, I’d get sparks. But if I connected the cables to the battery in back, I wouldn’t. Yet all the lighting was working and, in fact, the headlights were bright. The DIC reported 11.6V. Even with the jumper cables connected. And if I tried to crank the car, all the lighting would go dark but I didn’t get any noise from the Starter, no clicks or anything. Of course I was parked where it was impossible to try and push start it so I didn’t try that (MN6).
So now I’m waiting to hear back from the dealership. I’m thinking either the starter motor shit the bed or the motor is seized.
Anyone want to take a guess which?
Happened to the wife’s 2013 coupe. End up being a bad ground.
2013 kupé
Stainless Works Exhaust, Ported LSA heads, Ported SC, Custom Cam, 1/2″ SC Spacer, 103mm TB, 5″ RPM CAI, MMS Catch can, Vadar HX, 2.38 / 8.6 Pulleys, 110mm idler, TR7IX’s, ID1050’s, ALM Fuel Hat, DX300’s, ProMeth kit,
