I’ve also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let’s start. But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged.
(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let’s help to keep this information free-flowing. ) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh?
Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.
P / S:
If you’re quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out.
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
ampangbear Discussion starter
8592 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
Among the things to look at:-
NO CRANK AT ALL
— Check battery power.
— Check battery connection, like the terminal points for oxidation, or the connections for cut or severity etc.
— Check gear position. Car will and should not start if the gear is neither in P or N.
— Check ignition switch.
— Check fuses in the fuse-box.
CRANKS BUT DOESNT CATCH
— Check air filter.
— Check fuel filter.
— Listen for fuel-pump working when you turn the key into ‘Pos II’.
— Check fuel-pump controller (Pink fuse with letters 103).
— Check fuel-pressure at the fuel-rail.
— Check injector relay (Have someone turn ignition key into ‘Pos II’ while you firmly touch the injector relay — if you sense a small click, then it’s OK)
— Check injector relay connection (Some people solder the connections but when you need to replace it later, you’re in for more work)
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
3 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
I’ve done the Search and I haven’t found this problem.
I have had problems with my 94 850 Turbo that suddenly started running very rough. If I was very gentle on the gas pedal I can get it up to speed but pushing it down normally actually slows the engine down to a crawl. I checked for the Elbow Vacuum hoses and found holes but replacing them did nothing. I then changed the Gas Filter and now it won’t start. Plenty of turnover but it sounds like no fuel.
I followed the instructions found on the board but it said nothing about a bleeding procedure or other way to get the gas going.
1. is this normal with a fuel filter change?
2. Is it possible that I collasped/ pinched the fuel hose or something?
3 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
Well. Here I am replying to my own question.
After I changed the fuel filter my Volvo 850 turbo would not start. I searched the board and finally came across a statement that, as a last resort, «turn the key to start, hold down the gas pedal to the floor, and continue for up to 6 minutes.» Four and a half minutes later the car started!
I always thought that extended starting like that would harm the starter but the poster said it was OK and I trusted.
Evidently it is OK, as long as you have a good battery. Imagine, the car can turn over for over 4 minutes and not burn out the starter or weaken the battery!
It’s still running rough but that’s another topic.
javascript:emoticon(‘:grin:’)
smilie
2 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
Sometime i indeed have troubles starting my Volvo S40. I think it’s because i ran its battery on for to long. I havnt gotten up to changing it yet. But im going to fairely soon. Does you engine make a clicking niose everytime you try to start it?
1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2007
This is my first ever post! I have a problem with my 850 starting up — it takes a few attempts to start but eventually catches however I have to sit with the revs up sor a few minutes so it doesn’t cut out again. Also the lambda-sond warning light is on constantly.
I took it to the garage and they said it needed a flywheel sensor — this worked for one day then the whole problem began again! Can anyone tell me what could be causing this?
3 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
After changing the fuel filter and then starting the car using the 5 minute crank method, the fuel was still weak. Replaced the Fuel Pump and now all is great. The car starts, runs and drives better than ever.
1140 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
I remember when I was a kid my moms thunderbird starter got stuck. it just kept going. We had to call my dad and while my dad is on the phone he told me to disconnect the battery cable so I did. After about 15 minutes of the starter going over and over I got it to stop. the starter was just fine after my dad looked over the car. I always was amazed, and that was a Ford to beat it all. (no offense Tech) QUOTE(lazerr @ Apr 2 2007, 12:52 PM)Well. Here I am replying to my own question.
After I changed the fuel filter my Volvo 850 turbo would not start. I searched the board and finally came across a statement that, as a last resort, «turn the key to start, hold down the gas pedal to the floor, and continue for up to 6 minutes.» Four and a half minutes later the car started!
I always thought that extended starting like that would harm the starter but the poster said it was OK and I trusted.
Evidently it is OK, as long as you have a good battery. Imagine, the car can turn over for over 4 minutes and not burn out the starter or weaken the battery!
It’s still running rough but that’s another topic.
javascript:emoticon(‘:grin:’)
smilie
That’s because the starter motor draws heavy current upon intial start as it tries to get the engine up to crank speed.
As the resistance to cranking gets less, the amps start to drop until the maximum crank speed is reached, At this point the amps will have dropped dramatically and the starter motor will continue to run without any worry about it burning out as heat is the factor that damages any electric motor and all heat generated equates to the square of current (e.g. 2 amps = 4 heat units generated, 6 amps = 36 heat units generated, and so on.)
Imagine the heat generated if the starter ran continually at 100 amps or more.
Luckily when running at full speed (that is when the motor is cranking over easily) the current drawn by the starter motor is probably 5-10 amps which — for an item specifically designed to handle heavy current — is next to nothing.
ampangbear Discussion starter
8592 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
QUOTE(Scotsgirl @ Apr 12 2007, 04:44 PM)
Also the lambda-sond warning light is on constantly.
You need to check the lambda code and see what it says.
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
7 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
QUOTE(ampangbear @ Mar 27 2007, 05:20 AM)Symptom-based
Among the things to look at:-
NO CRANK AT ALL
— Check battery power.
— Check battery connection, like the terminal points for oxidation, or the connections for cut or severity etc.
— Check gear position. Car will and should not start if the gear is neither in P or N.
— Check ignition switch.
— Check fuses in the fuse-box.
CRANKS BUT DOESNT CATCH
— Check air filter.
— Check fuel filter.
— Listen for fuel-pump working when you turn the key into ‘Pos II’.
— Check fuel-pump controller (Pink fuse with letters 103).
— Check fuel-pressure at the fuel-rail.
— Check injector relay (Have someone turn ignition key into ‘Pos II’ while you firmly touch the injector relay — if you sense a small click, then it’s OK)
— Check injector relay connection (Some people solder the connections but when you need to replace it later, you’re in for more work)
I posted this on the Introductions initially — I have tried everything in the CRANKS BUT DOESN’T CATCH SECTION above after putting an engine and gearbox together with a new clutch and I just can’t get a spark from either the original or a brand new ignition coil — what is going on.
I have 2 1996 Volvo 850’s — one is going to that great Volvo graveyard (Red car) and the other (Green metallic car) is being rebuilt with the parts from it.
I have spent the last 5 weeks changing the clutch and gearbox from the red one to the green one, have found that the red one didn’t have a vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox and now, after having put the whole lot back together in the engine bay (Green engine, Red gearbox), I get no spark from the ignition coil (using a Draper strobe timing light) . HELP .
7 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
P.S. Also, there are no diagnostic codes available from the OBD I, not even a 1-1-1. Is this a ploy by Volvo to get me to dump 2 cars, or am I going mad ?
ampangbear Discussion starter
8592 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
Check the simple things first, like the battery power and the battery connections. When doing a major transplant like this, small things tend to get left out.
And since you’re good at the engines, try tracing back all that have been done to effect the change. Pay attention to relays, fuses and connections.
Oh BTW, i assume BOTH the cars are of the same model and year, right?
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
ampangbear Discussion starter
8592 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
Check the simple things first, like the battery power and the battery connections. When doing a major transplant like this, small things tend to get left out.
And since you’re good at the engines, try tracing back all that have been done to effect the change. Pay attention to relays, fuses and connections.
Oh BTW, i assume BOTH the cars are of the same model and year, right?
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
3 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
If you are having repeated problems with your volvo, you should think about seeking legal help. The site I use when I have recurring problems is http://www.volvoproblems.com. They helped me a lot.
49 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
If you have a no start problem where nothing happens when you turn the key. no crank. then: with the key on run the gear shift back and forth a few times through all the gears. it should then start right up again.
Otherwise, don’t forget to clean the ground in front of the battery on the body. every once in a while. especially if you have other weird electrcial symptoms.
7 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
Many thanks to all who replied — the answer was the ignition coil
200 GBP from Volvo, but only 70 GBP from Eurocarparts. Problem solved
16 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
Hey there all, I posted a few months ago when I bought my first Volvo, a 94 850 turbo. It was purchased in a no starting condition. I have done much experimentation and swapping components, including camshaft pos. sensor, coil, power stage and injector relay. (I had access to a non turbo donor car for free, why not right?). The symptoms are as follows. No spark though the coil is fine and getting power. I believe the Bosch ecu isn’t allowing a spark to happen either due to electrical fault or lack of signal from some sensor that it sees as important. The worst part is that I messed with the car for months and never got a spark, and one day was checking the state of the battery and it started up when cranked. It continued to start everyday for a month, so I registered the car. I was amazed at how good the engine sounded and ran after sitting for at least a year. The turbo spooled fine as well. I went to the grocery store and was on my way to fill up with fresh gas when the car died on a steep hill. It hasn’t started since. I have noticed and discussed with members here that my diagnostics unit (on board) transmits no data from several ports and most importantly number 2. When I plug the jumper in to these ports I immediately get a weak glow from the LED. I am going out right now to continue testing the ecu’s wiring harness one wire at a time, comparing values to a pin-out chart. By my logic this should show something eventually. If any one has any new ideas, let me know. Thanks to Ampangbear, JPN and Red850turbo for their previous help, it was appreciated.
ampangbear Discussion starter
8592 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005
QUOTE(ninefour850t @ Dec 9 2007, 08:17 AM)Hey there all, I posted a few months ago when I bought my first Volvo, a 94 850 turbo. It was purchased in a no starting condition. I have done much experimentation and swapping components, including camshaft pos. sensor, coil, power stage and injector relay. (I had access to a non turbo donor car for free, why not right?). The symptoms are as follows. No spark though the coil is fine and getting power. I believe the Bosch ecu isn’t allowing a spark to happen either due to electrical fault or lack of signal from some sensor that it sees as important. The worst part is that I messed with the car for months and never got a spark, and one day was checking the state of the battery and it started up when cranked. It continued to start everyday for a month, so I registered the car. I was amazed at how good the engine sounded and ran after sitting for at least a year. The turbo spooled fine as well. I went to the grocery store and was on my way to fill up with fresh gas when the car died on a steep hill. It hasn’t started since. I have noticed and discussed with members here that my diagnostics unit (on board) transmits no data from several ports and most importantly number 2. When I plug the jumper in to these ports I immediately get a weak glow from the LED. I am going out right now to continue testing the ecu’s wiring harness one wire at a time, comparing values to a pin-out chart. By my logic this should show something eventually. If any one has any new ideas, let me know. Thanks to Ampangbear, JPN and Red850turbo for their previous help, it was appreciated.
Car stalling while driving could mean the CMP sensor and/or the flywheel sensor. That is, btw, assuming that the maintenance part is all good. Meaning the air filter, sparkplugs, coil cables, spark cables, ignition coil, power stage, engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, atf are all ok.
DIY jako koníček. Někdy je to MUSÍ, jen aby můj mozek měl něco jiného k přemýšlení, kromě mé životně náročné práce!
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06-13-2022, 02:03 PM
Nováček
spouštěč nití
Datum připojení: prosinec 2021
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Won�t start issue
I have a 6,000 mile B5 Inscription. Suddenly after a day of normal driving, the car wouldn�t start. The dashboard had normal functionality but no ignition. I used Volvo OnCall and followed their tips (lock/unlock, etc.) but not change.
The car had towed to the dealer who is inspecting now, saying it could be a software and / or the mild hybrid battery issue. I�ll update the post when I know more, but crazy to think what would happen in a remote area with no dealer or tow service — shocking that a new car can simply die without warning.
06-13-2022, 02:38 PM
Super moderátor
Založen: Mar 2012
Místo: Burlington, VT
Příspěvky: 9,088
Obdržel 467 To se mi líbí u 450 příspěvků
there’s a concept in manufacturing quality called «infant mortality» where the probability of a device’s failure is highest when its new and then the probability declines logarithmically. This plays out as follow — 1 out of 1,000 devices fail after 100 hours, then the next 1 after 1000 hours then 1 after 10,000 hours. Point here is this this is why you get a warranty You just got some bad luck on the numbers but you should be covered. To note, software systems don’t really follow this rule directly but the number and nature of bugs do.
06-13-2022, 02:45 PM
Nováček
Datum připojení: prosinec 2021
Obdrženo 1 To se mi líbí u 1 příspěvku
Yep same happened to me a few weeks ago. The car is so new that the roadside assistance guy didn’t know what to do and the tow truck driver refused to tow the car because we could not get it out of park or get the handbrake off and he feared he might ruin the AWD system otherwise. They were both disgusted with me that this could happen to such a new car and Volvo should hang their head in shame. Luckily the tow truck driver who left advised to check online where I found that a main battery disconnect for 10 mins (so the battery located in the well under the spare wheel) and reconnect generally solves the issue. And it did.
After calling my local Vovlo dealer the next day and letting them know what happened, they said it would be 2 weeks before they could see my car. After arguing the point that this was too long to be potentially stranded by a brand new vehicle, they advised to bring the car in a few days later. They did the software upgrade to V2.1 where they advised this would solve their problem. A known issue they said. So far so good but let’s see.
06-14-2022, 03:48 PM
Nováček
spouštěč nití
Datum připojení: prosinec 2021
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Aktualizace
Volvo informed me the issue is with the �TCM� and quite common in their cars equipped with the Google OS. It can only be addressed via software updates and a system reset, but they don�t have a total solution yet.
Hopefully updating to 2.1 will help you avoid what happened to me.
Tento příspěvek se líbil následujícím uživatelům:
06-14-2022, 08:26 PM
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Založen: Feb 2022
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Had mine sitting for 4 days while away…. Batteries completely dead. Got it jump started though warnings on dash and wouldn’t go faster than 25 mph. Got it towed to Volvo dealer and 5 days, new computer unit installed and several problems upstaging software have it back now. Gotta love having a brand new car you have no trust in actually functioning.
06-20-2022, 07:05 AM
Nováček
Datum připojení: květen 2022
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Same for me
Původně odeslal PKX1234
I have a 6,000 mile B5 Inscription. Suddenly after a day of normal driving, the car wouldn�t start. The dashboard had normal functionality but no ignition. I used Volvo OnCall and followed their tips (lock/unlock, etc.) but not change.
The car had towed to the dealer who is inspecting now, saying it could be a software and / or the mild hybrid battery issue. I�ll update the post when I know more, but crazy to think what would happen in a remote area with no dealer or tow service — shocking that a new car can simply die without warning.
I posted in another area but no tow truck or Uber on A Sunday in Western NC, I watched them drag it onto tow truck next day, closest Volvo dealer was so busy took over a week to look at it.
ran for a week. Now heading back again as supposedly both key fobs are now dead.
06-26-2022, 09:45 AM
Nováček
Připojit Datum: listopad 2021
Obdržel 11 To se mi líbí u 9 příspěvků
We experienced the same problem a little bit after the 2.0 software update, and of course it occurred on a Sunday when the dealership is closed. We tried everything suggested in the manual and nothing worked to start the vehicle although the dash lit up, so there was battery power available. It seemed that the car did not recognize the key. We called Volvo assistance and were asked to put the gearshift in neutral. When I explained that couldn’t be done because it was a totally shift by wire transmission that required the key being recognized by the vehicle, I was immediately told they were calling a special tow truck (flat bed) and Uber so that the car could be taken to the closed dealership and we could get a ride home. Fortunately the service department got it back and running by doing a reset (cold reboot) by taking off one of the 12V battery terminals and, waiting and then reattaching it. Apparently that worked and a full software diagnostic evaluation was made and they made sure the software was operating properly. We have had no issues since that happened nearly two months ago.
