Ok so I need some help. Randomly when I start my X it sputters like its missing or something. Even driving it does the same thing. I can turn the truck off and restart it and most of the time it goes away. It doesn’t happen all the time. I have done the spark plugs, recently replaced the throttle body. I did all the resets as per the directions. Like I said it works just fine most of the time but still sputters randomly. Could it be one of the coils? Anyone else had this issue?

3692 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

Yes, it absolutely could be your coils.
Take your X to an auto parts store which will run a free diagnostic check.
If the check shows a misfire on one of your cylinders, I would replace all of your coils.

In my experience, if one coil is starting to fail, the rest are not far from it also.

Be prepared that you may have a cam position sensor which is failing.

Hopefully a diagnostic check will assist in determining what your problem is.

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„Jih si kdy přál jen to, aby Unie, jak ji založili naši předkové, byla zachována a vláda, jak byla původně organizována, byla spravována v čistotě a pravdě.
Robert E. Lee

Sptiki Discussion starter
78 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012
ok thanks, I will have that checked. The X does have 204k miles on it with original coils.
Sptiki Discussion starter
78 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012

Also wanted to add, it’s not throwing any codes besides my cat but not to worried about that. I have done a code check. Is there a way they can check the coils other than that?

3705 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

I have a similar issue. Started shortly after I changed the spark plugs.

happened once, then again, I thought it was because the gas cap was on wrong, seemed to mitigate the issue until the other day it happened again.

Its only if the truck is warm( ie driven recently) then turned off, then when i go to restart it is where i get the sputtering. like the engine wasn’t getting enough fuel, a few taps of the skinny pedal and it smoothed out. no issues at times other than start up.

I did have trouble with replacing one of the coils, the rubber boot that’s inside of the spark plug socket got stuck on the back of the plug and i tried to cram the coil down on top of it. Once I got the rubber boot out it went on fine( upon visual inspection the coil seemed in tact) anyways, I wonder if that has something to do with it.

I wonder also why it would be intermittent, if there is something wrong with the coil wouldn’t it be «wrong» all the time.

Also I dont have any SES light. I can have the auto parts store pull codes an see what comes up. but last time i had it checked it was clean, although that was before the «issue».

2006 Avalanche White Xterra S 4×4
266 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007

I wonder also why it would be intermittent, if there is something wrong with the coil wouldn’t it be «wrong» all the time.

Also I dont have any SES light. I can have the auto parts store pull codes an see what comes up. but last time i had it checked it was clean, although that was before the «issue».

I am pretty sure I had an intermittent misfire on Cyl #1 for a year or more. When I tested the old coil in the electronics lab at work, I could hear a quiet «zap» sound every few seconds so indicating arcing inside the coil. This would work out to maybe 1 in 100+ spark events being weak. In the vehicle, these zapping sounds would be drowned out by the other engine noises.

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In some YouTube videos, I have seen where a professional scanner was displaying misfire counters for each cylinder. If the frequency of the misfires is below some threshold, no code will be generated. I think this information would normally be accessed through Mode 6 of the OBD interface. Unfortunately, with the X, the misfire counters do not appear to be accessible through Mode 6 and probably would have to be accessed with Nissan’s proprietary Consult system. I had taken my X to a garage and asked them to pull this data using their scanner and they could not get it. When I use my Bluetooth OBD scanner to pull the Mode 6 data, I did not see anything that looked like it could be the misfire counters. The scanners the auto parts stores probably will not be able to get this data either.

Recently I noticed my 2017 PF sputtering while in Drive when I’m stopped at a red light.

My wife and I looked around to see if it was someone with a loud stereo with death metal music and subwoofers blasting. but nope, it was the engine/exhaust making the noise.

I put it in Neutral and the RPMs increased and the sputtering stopped. Put it back in Drive and the RPMs dropped and it started sputtering again.

It has 33,000 KM on it and I’ve only ever changed the oil.

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4019 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
Something loose underneath that vibrates only while idling?
steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017
Idling in Neutral is silent though, only when idling in Drive.
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4019 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014

RPMs drop a bit when in Drive and that could be the trigger, engines vibrate more when they go below certain RPMs.
Start with what YOU can diagnose, look for a loose heat shield or other components.
Since you are under warranty, next step is to go to the stealership.

197 příspěvků · Připojeno 2015

When the engine is cold, look underneath and try to move the exhaust system. It should have some flex, but not too much.

20 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

Clean throttle body ,and Idle Air Volume Learning (app cvtz50 — 5$)

I cleaned the throttle body, the car was new

steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

Hm, I shouldn’t need to clean the TB already, only has 33,000 KM on it (2017).

I used to do this monthly on my 2000 Grand Cherokee that was at 200,000 KM before I bought the PF.

I’ll take a look though.

2017 Pathfinder SL Gun Metallic (netechnické balení)
1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2019
What fixed it I have the same issues
162 příspěvků · Připojeno 2018

i’ve experienced this same sputtering too. 2017 with not even 14,000 miles on it.

what was the final word on this, steve?

current: 2017 pathfinder
previous 2003 maxima and 1986 maxima
steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

dealer found nothing (no codes), it still happens here and there, im at 40,000 km now.

it’s so random, and doesn’t show on the RPMs. not sure what it would even be.

2017 Pathfinder SL Gun Metallic (netechnické balení)
2261 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019

When it’s in the conditions where the sputtering happens, are the RPMs different than when it doesn’t sputter? I’m wondering if there’s a defective engine mount.

FWIW, we had 90K miles on our 2016 Nissan Quest which has the same basic engine/CVT drivetrain as the PF and was smooth as butta with never needing to clean the throttle body.

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steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

no, the RPMs are not impacted at all with or without sputtering. It’s more of a bump bump bumping in the transmission as we can feel it more below us than infront.

2017 Pathfinder SL Gun Metallic (netechnické balení)
2261 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019

I would have a look under the hood, with the vehicle idling in drive with the parking brake set, wheels cocked and somebody in the driver’s seat. Just to see if you can see/feel the vibrations.

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39 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

my 17 has started misfiring when cold at the first few stops. Only so far in cold weather, below 50F. I’ve pulled up the misfire counters. I’m at 80k miles right now and it started last winter with around 70k.It’s probably what you’re feeling as well. It’s pretty subtle.

I haven’t really looked into it, but was thinking of trying to clean the throttle body. I’m getting pretty close to plugs as well, so if I have to pull it all apart I’ll do it all at the same time.

2261 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019

Are you able to see recordable misfires? Has the check engine light ever come on?

I doubt it would be throttle body related given the 2017+ use direct fuel injection, but a TB cleaning couldn’t hurt.

Once the upper intake manifold is removed for a spark plug change out, id be interested in seeing how dirty the back sides of the intake valves are and if they’ll need walnut blasting like lots of DI engines need from time to time.

Super carboned up intake valves could cause misfires.

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39 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

I haven’t had an opportunity to watch it happen, but I am able to see the misfire counters. It has now started doing it even in warm weather. The check engine light has never come on (yet).

15469

2261 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019

Did your 2017 just start doing this or has it always done it?

I’ve got a steering component noise on my 2019 that I’m trying to troubleshoot so I started it cold with the hood up the other day.

There definitely sounds like a very mild, subtle cold start misfire on mine that you can hear as a burble through the exhaust. It seemed to last maybe 20-30sec, but this was an 85-90degF day.

Like may be mentioned above, one of the large causes of misfires on DI engines is carbon build up on the intake valves because no fuel washes across them with DI. Problem is, our 2017+ are so new yet, I haven’t heard any reports of this.

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39 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

It has always had the initial startup misfire, to a point. That aspect hasn’t changed at all over time. Besides listening for it you’d never notice it. I’m not sure if it is an actual misfire.

This idle low load misfire started last winter. My commute consists of about 6 blocks to the Freeway, with 2 stop lights. Then 25 minutes on the Freeway. So it started missing obviously last winter, at the first couple of lights (within about a mile of my house). But once it was up to operating temp it seemed like it went away.

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Just today I noticed it doing it at every stop. I hadn’t noticed that in the past.

I suppose it is possible it is transmission related, usually I only drive it to and from work and don’t want to sit on the scanner checking these things, ya know?

We also had a little tiff with our dealer and am hesitant to bring it back there. We have a 100k drive train warranty but I don’t remember what is in it. Pretty sure it’s just hard parts.

4019 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014

Open a claim with Nissan and send them the data you have collected. Miss-fires will destroy your cats.

2261 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019

Those counts may be within the acceptable range unfortunately. They surely are per the vehicle’s own monitoring system, or it would have set a misfire code by now.

Knowing how dealers roll with no codes, no problems, I don’t see dealers intervening here unless you want to pay for an «induction cleaning» or possibly new spark plugs, etc..

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39 příspěvků · Připojeno 2016

Which is why I haven’t taken it in yet. I know how dealerships work. I’ll get no code, unable to reproduce, and then the bill.

But it has definitely gotten worse. I’ll try to capture the misfiring one of these days when I’m not driving to work. Many days, like today, I never even come to a stop bewteeen home and work.

Edit: that screenshot was from 4/29/20. I’ll pull it up again and compare in the next couple days (I work a very odd shift).

6 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020

The only thing that I can think of that would cause a widespread misfire is a vacuum leak, perhaps a bad check valve or the brake booster going bad.

693 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020

Does it do this every time? Does AC on have an impact it?

What is the short term fuel trim % after warmed up, at idle, in park, all accessories off? Hopefully you have a scantool that can do this and read codes. If not, you’ll have to get one or pay someone who has one and knows how to use it.

That’s not how dealers work. It’s how diagnosis works, and it turns out that way all the time. If there’s no data and it’s not reproducible, then there is nothing to test.

steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

Does it do this every time? Does AC on have an impact it?

What is the short term fuel trim % after warmed up, at idle, in park, all accessories off? Hopefully you have a scantool that can do this and read codes. If not, you’ll have to get one or pay someone who has one and knows how to use it.

That’s not how dealers work. It’s how diagnosis works, and it turns out that way all the time. If there’s no data and it’s not reproducible, then there is nothing to test.

I don’t have a scan tool, which do you recommend. BlueDriver?
2017 Pathfinder SL Gun Metallic (netechnické balení)
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steve80 Začátek diskuze
328 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

yeah, same issue, no check engine light, etc. just that little annoyance

I use the FRAM TGA4309S Tough Guard air filter. I’m at around 52,000KM.

I might get one of those smart ODB2 scanners, would be cool to see what’s going on overall.

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2017 Pathfinder SL Gun Metallic (netechnické balení)
693 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020

Grab one. There’s really no reason to not have one at this point with them being so cheap. You may find a code stored and may not. Without codes, you have to know how to interpret data, which is the tough part.

It’s an expensive lesson to learn that codes don’t tell you the problem. Some people never learn from that lesson either.

There are a lot of good resources out there to learn from on YouTube, but there are far more bad ones, and unfortunately,the bad ones are the most popular. Probably because the good ones are gears toward professionals and the bad are geared toward a diy market looking for a silver bullet fix. A good way to pick out bad information is if the video says how to fix xyz code. There is not one fix. You want ones that say how to diagnose xyz code.

From a diy perspective, I’d say matt from Schrodinger’s box QM is my favorite. He breaks it down well and you can learn how to use that tool from him.

69 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
Cvtz50 app will also read cvt temp. Torque app does not.
4 příspěvků · Připojeno 2023

My wife’s 2018 Pathfinder is having this problem. Research has told me that I need to clean the Throttle Housing, Vacuum the Mas Air Flow, check for any disconnected or leaky air hoses, add some HEAT/Fuel Injector Cleaner and probably change fuel filter.

If that doesn’t work, Plugs and Coils, possible crank shaft sensor or replace fuel injectors. I saw several older Nissans have a sputtering issues at 40-60K miles, which my wife’s is at 50k, and it was fixed with plugs and coils.

However, we have had a lot of cold nights 42 degrees and then 70 during the day and if the tank was empty, could be a decent amount of condensation so a HEAT bomb may be waiting. With a little seafoam while I am at it.

4 příspěvků · Připojeno 2023

Ok. I think I figured it out. 1st, I took off the Mass Air Flow assembly which is 2 screws in the front and there is one more below the air filter. I took all that out, used an air hose and blew all that out. My air filter was good but blew that out as well. I then took off the hose clamps to expose the throttle housing. There was a sticky oily type substance on the butterfly valve. Keep in mind, I did not take off the whole assembly but I probably will later this summer to give it a better cleaning. Once I sprayed that with break cleaner, yes I know it is different then carb cleaner but it did work to dissolve the sticky oil that was all over the butterfly valve. Just keep in mind, if you do something questionable like I did, do your research, I kept the spray away from rubber and plastic parts. There is no oil in in break cleaner but there is some oil in carb cleaner. I also put it two water remove/fuel injector cleaner bottles in it due to the fact that it was run almost empty and we had some pretty hot days and cold nights here in a Wisconsin May where it May snow, May rain, May be 100 degrees. Lastly, I did some research that the chugging and rough idle could be tied to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So I spray bombed that as well. The car is running great but I could not get the check engine light to go off. I tried a method like 20 and it finally worked. but there is a catch to do it, I think. I noticed the other times I tried this method, it says to put the car in the on position but do not start it. Normally, when I would try that, the main dash screen would turn on with everything else. However, this time, that screen did not turn on, only the screen for the controls and radio did. So when using this one, you might need to put it in the on position when the key is not near the car. I am not sure what made it work but I think because I have a key fob issue where it never seems to recognize the keyfob, it worked. So that method was 1) put the car in the on position but do not start it. 2) pump the gas peddle 5 times withing 5 seconds. 3) Wait 7 seconds and hold the gas down for 10 seconds until you see the CEL flash **Note, when I did this, it didn’t flash but what flashed was some sort of a thin red let and the middle right side by the speedometer. 4) Turn off the car and then turn it on. You can find this trick on youtube for a 2017 nissan and I can’t remember if I just started the car or if I shut it off and then started it.

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I know it is a bunch but all of this probably took under 30 minutes and I only needed a Flathead, A Phillips and I think it was a 8 or 10 MM socket for the hoze clamps for the Mass Air Flow.

So, in short (but read in full for some maybies)

1) Remove Mass Air flow, Air Filter and take off the hose clamp attached to the Throttle Assembly.
2) Air hose out the air filter, all the components and clean it the best you can. (I only air hosed it out)
3) Use carb cleaner to clean out the throttle assembly. (You may have to take off the whole assembly to really give it a good leaning)
4) Clean Mass Air Flow sensor (or replace it) because the error code can be caused by this being dirty. This is located between your air filter and the throttle assembly.
5) Put it all back together the way you fount it.
6) Reset the Check Engine Light (Disconnecting Battery Doesn’t Work, see description in long winded paragraph above)

Please Note — it was a really rough start after I did all the spraying but once it started it was good.

As of this message, we have put a solid 125 or so miles on it and no check engine light and my wife is about to do a 100 mile round trip for my kids soccer game and she said there is no check engine light. I should note the initial diagnostic from AutoZone said it was a cam shaft position sensor error. P0101 and then C1130. The 101 error could include mass air flow and a bunch of things and the 130 error is basically saying it couldn’t do the check because of the other error.

In the end, it was never the CAM sensor and some stuff just needed to be cleared out and likely saving me 500 bucks worth of crap. I also drove it for a week with the check engine light on and then I cleaned out the Mass Air Flow Sensor and got the reset to work.

Sorry for being all over the place, ADHD makes me ramble a bit but I hope this advice can save a few of you a bunch of money!!