Why is my Nissan Altima shaking at idle?

I have a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s automatic transmission. It has 215k miles on it and been well maintained its whole life. Recently I noticed some motor vibration when at a stop light (vehicle is in drive, but I am applying the brakes), in park, and at idle.

Initially, I thought it was motor mounts. I replaced them and the vibration continued. (BTW — they were due to be replaced)

Then, I thought it was the harmonic balancer. I replaced last night. This improved the vibration slightly but still very noticeable vibration at the lower RPMS.

Anyone have this issue or know what may be causing the vibration?

7147 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
Alternator clutch if you have one? Change the spark plugs?

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lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

I was planning on changing the spark plugs this evening.. I will see if I have an alternator clutch. Thank you

1269 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010

If not that then due to the miles I would say the balancer chain might be off a tooth or two.

We all know the timing component issues with these cars so its not unlikely with an engine of that many miles that either the tensioner, or guide might be worn out, letting the chain get too loose.

I would try the new alternator first, as Doug suggested, as you can always take it back if its not the problem.

Just make sure you tell the parts store you didn’t install it, as sometimes they won’t take it back if its been installed [so you’re stuck with an expensive part you didn’t need].

Also be SURE to keep the alt clean, or clean it before you bring it back, and try to bring it back the day you bought it [IF its not the problem].

Last please update the post, and let us know what the problem was.

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017
thank you M-Train. Great feedback. Yes, I will let the forum know as soon as I find the resolution
7147 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013

You know. it could just be a dirty throttle body, or lazy A/F O2 sensor, or MAF. anything that would cause the engine to run rough. but it’s hard to tell based on the description above whether we’re talking rough idle or something like a worn clutch or belt/chain tensioner.

If you have a clutch pulley, there is a simple test you can do without even removing it. just the belt. Then jam the internal rotor blades with a pencil, and try to turn the clutch pulley by hand. if it only spins one way, you are good. if it spins both ways. it’s done.

170 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010

yep, ADP or the serpentine belt slipping? and/or the other pulley. or the tensioner pulley.

when in park, what happens when you put a load on it, like MAx A/C? more vibration? and you changed all 4 motor mounts, correct? (3 motor and 1 transmission mount)

To check for recalls to your specific vehicle. Just enter your VIN# at http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin#/

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

Ok, based on the feedback, I changed the spark plugs this evening and I think I may have stumbled upon the real issue causing the motor to run rough. Super frustrated right now because i changed the harmonic balancer and motor mounts with no luck! lol oh well.

Anyway, of the four spark plugs I changed. the first 3 plugs looked ok, but the 4th one was dripping with oil (literally soaking wet). This might explain why the car was almost two quarts low at my last oil change and I haven’t noticed the car leak a drop of oil. :surprise

Could this be the cause of the problem? Does this mean the rings are bad or the head?

The plug that was cover in oil was the one on the far left (if you are looking at the engine bay — right above the alternator). See image below (not sure if that makes a difference).

Any advice and/or feedback is greatly appreciated.

ČTĚTE VÍCE

Zkratuje Bill Gates akcie Tesly?

7147 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013

It just means the valve cover seal around the spark plug well has gone. Its very common and the solution is to replace the plastic valve cover. eBay seems to be the cheapest source for those, or maybe an online Nissan parts outfit.

Now about the missing 2 quarts. While it’s possible that the tube seal was the issue. I think you’ll agree that 2 quarts of oil poured into that tiny cylinder would make quite a bit of a mess! So if there are no signs of oil all over the valve cover then I think you may have an other issue to investigate.

These engines are known for precat issues (google it, or search this forum. I can’t keep explaining over and over). Upshot is dying precat causes extreme engine wear leading to massive oil consumption (1qt/1000mi)

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

I really appreciate the feedback. I ordered the parts to replace the valve cover and will work on it this Saturday. Also, the mechanic said I was about two quarts low at my last oil change but I was also over due by about 2000 miles (so hopefully no precat issues but we will see).

Am I correct in assuming that a bad valve cover seal around the spark plug well will cause the engine to run rough and foul out the plug/plugs?

7147 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
Yes, but it should throw P030x codes if one plug is misfiring (where x=# of cylinder with oil leak)

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

interesting.. no code or check engine light is visible. Well, I will change the parts out this weekend and see how it goes. If this doesn’t solve the problem this the car is hitting craigslist by the end of the weekend lol

4 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
Leaking intake gasket? Common on gen 1 Altimas..
lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

How would I go about checking for this?

Replaced the value cover today along with the ignition coil that was covered in oil. Then I changed all four spark plugs since I was already in there. The install went fairly well beside snapping off one of the valve cover bolts.. that was a pain in the a$$:surprise:surprise

Overall, it appears that the motor is running much better. There is noticeably less vibration at idle. With that said, I still feel like it is running a little rough (could be just in my mind).

1) There is a hose that comes off the PCV value and goes into the intake manifold. Mine was in really bad shape.. could this mess anything up? I ordered online today because it was not available at the auto part store.

2) could the throttle body or mass air flow sensor need to be cleaned? if so, any advice on doing this?

7147 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013

1. Yes. Rotted emissions hoses will cause an unmetered air problem, which will cause non-ideal mixtures.

2. Visually inspect the TB for gunk. Cleaning these has often resulted in people having to replace them, plus the hassle of idle relearns etc.

I’d replace the rotted hose(s) first and see how it runs. MAF and TB are usually more responsible for uneven idle, hesitation, stumbling, stalling. than rough idle.

Good job so far! And thanks very much for the detailed updates. others will benefit for sure.

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

After fooling around with the car earlier today we checked out the MAF and TB. Overall it looked pretty good.. and even though the PCV hose needs to be replaced, it doesn’t appear to be leaking. Not sure these are causing the vibration.

I am beginning to think the alternator clutch is going bad (which was actually the first suggestion that was made in this post).

ČTĚTE VÍCE

Jak zjistíte, proč mi svítí kontrolka motoru?

1) I placed my hand on the valve cover when the motor was running and then I compared it to the alternator. The alternator (while running) had significant more vibration.

2) When I turn the car off, there is a distinct whining sound that lasts for a few seconds immediately after the car shuts down. We tested it a few times and it appeared to be the alternator (best guess).

3) When in neutral or park, the vibration basically goes away (almost completely). When put into drive or reverse, the vibration gets worse.

4) Lastly, when A/C is turned on the vibration gets worse (while parked or in any gear).

Anyway, that is what I think may be the main issue here. Thoughts?

Looks like an alternator can be picked up for about $120 and its a fairly easy install.

Thanks again for all the comments and support! :smile:smile I will update further this week

170 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010

yea, the whining is the bearing inside the alternator. A grinding coffee kind of sound is often the ADP (clutch pulley). I changed the adp and the grinding stopped, but I still hear a whirling/whinging kind of sound after I turn the car off as well Maybe like 2-3 secs but feels longer. Again, thats probably one of the 2 bearings actually inside the alternator. The part is probably like $5 (r and it would be a PITA to replace. But usually, when an alternator is remanufactured, they replace the ADP, both bearings inside, the voltage regulator and brushes inside, and I think one or two more things.

I actually bought a used altima alternator in order to replace all parts and test. Hope to do it in the next 10-20 yrs.

And don’t forget to test the serpentine belt and belt tensioner/pulley. Since you’ve got over 200k on the car, might as well change that out I’d say. its supposed to be PM’d at around 80K IIRC. 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L serpentine belt tensioner replacement — YouTube

To check for recalls to your specific vehicle. Just enter your VIN# at http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin#/

170 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010

regarding the P030X codes. I remember having intermittent misfire issues, but my CEL never came on. Finally at one point, it got real bad and thats when I got the P0302. That misfire was causing more than a little vibration though, it was a rough shake . Ended buying a new ignition coil and it fixed the issue. Oddly, I recently noticed an intermittent issue again on another valve once each of the past 2 weeks., but I got the code hit the time it happened. ugghhh. These cars sometimes.

To check for recalls to your specific vehicle. Just enter your VIN# at http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin#/

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

I changed out the PVC hose last night since the old one was rotted out pretty bad. It did NOT fix the vibration.

The alternator and tensioner pulley will be delivered and installed tomorrow afternoon. that is going to be my final try with this car lol. I am hoping that one of the two fixes the issue.

FYI — I used a metal bar and held it up to the alternator (while running) and listened to noises it made. it did appear to be whinning and grinding more than seemed normal (at least to me). fingers crossed that the alternator (and alternator pulley), along with a new tensioner pulley will finally resolve this ongoing issue.

I will update the post when/if the fix works.

Thanks again for all the feedback and support.

lsilva916 Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2017

Replaced the tensioner pulley and the alternator last night. The old tensioner pulley was certainly bad. when I held it in my hand and spun the pulley, I could physically feel vibration. The alternator may/may not have been bad.

The install was fairly simple but you had to work in a tight/confined space which was a bit of a pain.

Unfortunately, there is a vibration that still exists at idle and when placed into gear. Realistically, the vibration is not that bad and at this point I can probably just live with it for a while until ready to purchase a new car. Most people don’t even recognize it until I point it out. With that said, the only other thing I can really think of at this point is the throttle body.

I may take the vehicle to the dealer and have them service the throttle body. Afterall, it has never been done (not one time) and the vehicle has 214k miles. who knows, maybe its causing vehicle to run rough idle.

ČTĚTE VÍCE

Kolik stojí oprava měniče točivého momentu?

Anyway, thank you again for all your help! There is no doubt in my mind that I replaced items that would ultimately cause issues down the road if we hadn’t gone through all of the items listed in this post.

If I find the solution to the vibration, I will post another update

1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2019

The install was fairly simple but you had to work in a tight/confined space which was a bit of a pain.

If I find the solution to the vibration, I will post another update

Was this issue resolved, am having a similar problem with my Nissan Murano.
1269 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010

AS long as it runs good, ie not knocking, or blowing blue smoke, or dying on you then I would just drive it.

Keep an eye on the oil, and maybe keep a few cans oil in the trunk just in case.

If you take it to the dealer they are going to rape you. I can almost promise it.

1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2019

Half the auto repair industry is built on people throwing unnecessary money at non existent problems. replace a dry rotted and hardened brittle pos PCV hose with a fresh piece of cut 3/8 fuel line. Same goes for the breather tube when it splits in half after molesting for the first time in its 10 year life. (1/2″ maybe) you can test motor mounts by simply gently supporting the engine with a floor Jack. Or heavily braking the engine while in gear or reverse. Get to the source of the problem and ignore throwing wasted money at unhelpful and foolish repairs. If it idles rough and gets worse with a load on it (ie: in gear) think about the true possibilities of the source of the issue. In this case probably a aging harmonic balancer allowing extra vibration to be introduced at the original source of rotation (ie:the energy). A belt tensioner doesnt allow enough torque or energy to vibrate the car. Either does a alternator. (Minor vibration in the belt line at worst) But the crankshaft of the engine (the main source of the energy created when running) could certainly do so. Plugs and coils cause misfires so if theres no codes, theres no problems. Same goes for maf and similar input sensors. Look at the bigger picture and dont focus on minor ifs or maybe. And save your money for necessary repairs. If theres a rattle in exhaust : inspect it. If theres smoke. must be fire.

I have a 03 Nissan Altima 2.5L SE . About a year ago it started idling rough when you put it in drive. It has not really gotten worse but now I have started smelling gas sometimes. The dealership cant find anything wrong. They have tested the throttle body, throttle position sensor. MAF sensor, Intake gasket, and just about everything else. Its not giving any codes. It just feels like timing doesn’t advance when you put the car in drive. If you turn the air conditioner on it will smooth it out. Ive changed the plugs but have not changed the wires the dealership said they were fine. Also have checked the 3 way going to the converter and this is fine. The car has 75000 miles on it.

I cleaned the throttle body. Cleaned the MAF. Changed the air filter and spark plugs. I took it to the dealership they reprogrammed the ECU and ran diagnostics. The car runs good but you can tell it doesnt have the power it used to. It idles perfect in park and runs smooth all the way up to hwy speeds. You can tell its a little sluggish when you get on the gas. Its just when you put it in drive and sit idle it vibrates. Its not loping and skipping just seems like its idle is too low. When you turn on the air condition the idle goes up and it smooths out, but when you put it in drive its like it doesnt sense the extra load and the idle stays just a tad too low. Just recently I have noticed you can smell gas in the car when you are at red lights or just stopped. Its not strong but you can smell it. I thought this may help in the diagnosis. The motor mounts are like new also. So im stumped. Fuel pump or fuel filter ?? Maybe but would it run this long without getting worse ? Someone told me to replace the Crank position sensor because it can cause problems like this without giving a code. What do you think ?

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Jak rychle dokáže Supra MK4 přejít z 0 na 60?

3 příspěvků · Připojeno 2009

try this to test it out:

drive the car a bit.
when it starts shaking like you say. park it somewhere and pop the hood open.
now unscrew the cap that is on the radiator where antifreeze passes through (have a towel thrown on it before you twist the cap as the fluid is VERY hot).
if when you unscrew it and some fluid comes out and the car stops shaking. theres your answer.

may be a clog or possibly the coilpacks but you say you have changed that right?

in a wild shot it may be the IACV

its definately not anything major like engine or tranny though but is just as annoying and can even be dangerous i would say

12 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020

try this to test it out:

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Why won t my Acura TLX start?

may be a clog or possibly the coilpacks but you say you have changed that right?

in a wild shot it may be the IACV

its definately not anything major like engine or tranny though but is just as annoying and can even be dangerous i would say

try this to test it out:

may be a clog or possibly the coilpacks but you say you have changed that right?

in a wild shot it may be the IACV

its definately not anything major like engine or tranny though but is just as annoying and can even be dangerous i would say

I have the exact same problem. Very little mid range power and runs rough at idle when in gear. If you have heard how to fix this problem please contact me at cdromed@aol.com

8 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020
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385 příspěvků · Připojeno 2020

What brand of spark plugs are you using? You should be using OEM NGK plugs; other brands such as Champion or Bosch many times cause driveability problems in Nissan engines.
The cam position sensor may be marginal.
Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. The readings at idle should be 51 psi.
There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 — 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
Dirty fuel injector(s). Run some good injection cleaner, like BG products 44K, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it’s job.