Why is my Mini Cooper clicking?

Problémy/problémy s akciemi Diskuse týkající se problémů a oprav souvisejících se zárukou nebo jiných problémů s OEM díly a softwarem pro MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper a Cooper S (R56) a Cabrio (R57).

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10-24-2016, 08:13 PM
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Mini Relay Clicking

I have a 2008 Mini Cooper and there is a clicking coming from the fuse box in the passenger floorboard. I’m thinking it’s the relay located at the bottom of the fuse panel.

Could anyone tell me where I can get a replacement relay and more specifically, which relay to purchase?

Děkujeme za jakoukoli zpětnou vazbu!

10-25-2016, 09:44 AM
Založen: Jan 2015
Místo: Philadelphia PA
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behind the kick panel on the passenger side is the fuse box. the relays are internal to it with the exception of two relays.

when do you hear the clicking?

10-25-2016, 10:17 AM
Prodejce
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Any other symptoms other than the clicking noise? When do you hear it? (i.e. only while driving, when the key is in the ignition, etc).

PelicanParts.com
10-25-2016, 02:20 PM
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I hear it when I put my key in the ignition and after I take it out after turning off the car. I’ve never heard it while driving though.

10-25-2016, 02:48 PM
Založen: Jan 2015
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I just tried my car, i think it is the accessory switch relay. Totally normal. Now that you noticed the click, your ears will be very sensative to the » normal» click of the relay. Ignore it

Last edited by MiniToBe; 10-25-2016 at 03:00 PM .
10-25-2016, 07:59 PM
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I know the click you’re talking about, and this isn’t it. This is a similar sound, but very rapid. I’m tempted to say «sizzling» almost, but nothing is burning that I’m aware of.

Now that you mention the accessory relay, I’m wondering if that’s it. Sometimes when I turn my car off, the headlights stay on when they shouldn’t, and occasionally dash lights come on that quickly go away or disappear completely after turning off and restarting.

10-25-2016, 08:36 PM
Založen: Jan 2015
Místo: Philadelphia PA
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Try to remove the whole kick panel and press on the connectors to make sure they arent loose. Also, be aware of water seepage from both sides of the inner upper panels. They leake for ne reason. Also check the FRM module since it is the one responsible for the lights and Windows.

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10-26-2016, 05:07 PM
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What is the FRM module?
10-26-2016, 05:15 PM
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Místo: Philadelphia PA
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It is the footwell module or body control module
07-18-2018, 08:58 AM
Založen: Jul 2018
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Mini Clicking Noises Passenger Fuse Panel
Původně odeslal mlundy

I know the click you’re talking about, and this isn’t it. This is a similar sound, but very rapid. I’m tempted to say «sizzling» almost, but nothing is burning that I’m aware of.

I am having the same problem. When I take the accessory switch relay out the noise still occurs and when I put the key in the windshield wipers come on. It seems like it only happens when it is hot because early in the morning it doesn’t do it. Also my DTC and brake (yellow) light comes on on the cluster. It does sometimes not come on but 7 out of 10 times the lights do come on. Would that have anything to do with the clicking noise?

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I also have a new battery in the car as well.

Can anyone give me some advise what this may be?

06-07-2019, 10:46 PM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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Původně odeslal tazzbug

I also have a new battery in the car as well.

Can anyone give me some advise what this may be?

Was this ever resolved? I�m right where you were. DSC and brake light on (yellow) and clicking sound from fuse box when the key is put in the ignition and as the car is turned off.

Research pointed me to CAS module but I�m still not certain. The car is hard to start sometimes cause it only cranks for like 2 seconds then quits. Once it starts there are no issues except occasional clicking noises from the passenger footwell fuse box.

Anyone have any info on this please? Much appreciated

06-12-2019, 08:48 AM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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I created a video showing whats happening so it can be watched here:
06-12-2019, 09:11 AM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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Thanks for the reply. I have checked all the basics, key slot ribbon, battery, connections, ground etc. I want to try a different key slot but I have not found conclusive info as to whether a key slot is plug and play or if it has some dealer programming drama that goes with its swap. Anyone know whether a key slot swap is plug and play?

And for clarity, This is the part I mean by key-slot (Without the key of course)

06-12-2019, 09:19 AM
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Místo: Philadelphia PA
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The key slot IS plug and play and needs NO programming.

I wonder if you have codes stored? you need BMW/MINI specific reader. read the CAS codes and SPEG (fuse box) codes.

06-12-2019, 10:21 AM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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I waiting on a code reader and it just got delivered. I ran the CAS codes and got this, don’t know what any of this means

06-12-2019, 10:29 AM
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as always, clear and see what comes back. try reading the CAS few times even after starting the car. same with the fuse box.

06-27-2019, 08:47 PM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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One day this week I left it outside the garage it went all crazy, it wouldn’t start, made strange noises and as soon as i put the key in the ignition, All lights (headlights and tail lights) started flickering and would not turn off, I had to unplug the battery for the lights to go off. When I would plug it back up the lights would go at it again. Left the battery unplugged overnight, and the next day the car started right up and no issues.

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So I have driven the car around the past few days and deleted codes and came up with these persistent codes.

301E DME: Enable Line, MSA activation

A0B4 : Engine start, start operation.
A0A9 4CD8 DDE control unit internal
A0BE CAS: Terminal 15 output 1
A0BF CAS: Terminal 15 output 2
A0C0 CAS: Terminal 15 output 3

The «Orange DSC and Brake» Light keeps coming and going away on it’s own. ALL ABS sensors are working as far as I saw on the data stream (with or without the DSC light on.)

I also tried a different ignition switch and it did not make a difference.

08-17-2019, 07:11 PM
Připojit Datum: srpen 2019
Místo: Alabama
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Any resolution? I don’t really wanna go on a parts buying spree, but I also don’t want my little cooper to stay dead. I’m not sure if extra input will help or not, but I hit a pothole pretty hard on the passenger side front and the horn decided to blow for a few seconds. I’m leaning towards a wiring harness issue, but I’m kinda lost on this car. I usually only work on American and Japanese.

Clint Kennedy
10-04-2019, 08:41 PM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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It was the CAS Module. Checked all of my basics and couldn’t narrow it down to anything until I read a thread with very similar symptoms to what I had.The Fuse Box Noises as soon as the key is in the ignition. More so on Hot Days for some reason.

The car threw various random CAS Module Codes and DSC Light kept coming on. I read how the Dealer charges $1200 to correct this with a new CAS module because they have to program it. Honestly I’ve never been to a dealer so I have no idea but I believe it.

I suspected I needed a new CAS module and it is a car specific part and has to be dealer programmed. . I got to digging on the internet and Alas! I found a ~ $200 Solution. I went to the local junkyard that had a Mini Cooper 2010 like mine. I pulled out the CAS module from this car myself (Its a self service junkyard) and paid $35 for it.

I had found a guy on ebay. bimmermaster in Florida. This guy can clone a CAS module for you using your original faulty CAS and one from a donor vehicle. Here is a link to his ebay listing.

I removed my faulty CAS module from my car, sent the two in, he cloned it for me, ALL ISSUES GONE, NO CODES. PLUG and PLAY. SWEET VICTORY.

10-05-2019, 08:27 AM
Připojit Datum: srpen 2019
Místo: Alabama
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I got frustrated with it one day when I got home and the headlights wouldn’t go off and I told the car to just sit there and die (real mature I know). Three days later, I decided to go charge the battery back up and try troubleshooting again. It cranked right up with no issues and has been perfect since. Not sure why, but also not complaining. If she crapps out again, I’ll be trying the CAS module. Such a fun car to drive. when it’s not acting up.

Clint Kennedy
10-05-2019, 09:14 AM
Založen: Apr 2018
Místo: Houston, TX
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That was one of the issues I had as well, sometimes my headlights would just refuse to turn off and I would have to unplug the battery. The strange thing with is that the symptoms were never consistent, it just did a lot of random crazy stuff.

1. Headlights refusing to turn off and would only turn off after the battery is unplugged.

2. All lights flickering like the battery is dying or there’s a bad connection, this would happen when the key is inserted in the cradle.

3. Clicking rattling noise from the fuse box that happened as soon as the key is inserted in the cradle and sometimes even after the key was removed it would continue.

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4. Difficulty starting the car, happened very inconsistently, car would crank once and stop, car would start and die in 2 seconds.

5. The car would throw a bunch of random CAS module codes that were never the same.

6. The DSC Light would come on a lot, I could even make it come on by wiggling the key in the cradle. (I had already eliminated the cradle as a culprit by swapping it with another) I could also produce the clicking on the fuse box by wiggling the key in the cradle, And I could also shut off the car by wiggling the key. STRANGE.

The CAS module also seemed to be triggering other codes when it was acting up (All are gone after CAS replacement) such as SPEG codes, ECU codes and others I don’t remember.

All the above symptoms could be treated by unplugging the battery for 2-3 days. After doing this the car would run for about 2 weeks with no issue at all then they would all return.

This is my first Mini and it does the strangest things among all cars I have owned. I have been a benz driver for the most part and have been able to solve benz issues relatively easily but also because of the abundance of information on the benz forums compared to the not so much info on NAM. I hope I was descriptive enough to help anyone who has these issues. There are youtube videos on the dash removal, very easy to do when removing the CAS. The ebay cloning service works and the link is above. Search for LKQ junkyards in your area, they are in many states, you pull your own parts, and they’re way cheaper than ebay or new. Some of The cloning service guys can provide the donor CAS but it will be an extra $100 if they do.

10-27-2019, 10:26 PM
Založen: Sep 2012
Location: Nashville, TX
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I had this same problem with my daughter’s 2008 R56 and it turned out to be the CAS module that needed to be replaced. I called both RPM and Bimmerscan for quotes. RPM was about $400. Bimmerscan was $200. I shipped the faulty CAS and a spare CAS module that I have in my R56 parts surplus (I’m on my 6th R56 and have had a terrible history with timing chains and HPFP’s. long, epic story!)
Bryce at Bimmerscan was helpful on the phone and very communicative throughout the process. He even sent pics of the CAS on his «bench» as he was doing the cloning. He shipped it back and I was able to get it late on a Saturday.

Today — Sunday — I spent a good part of the afternoon installing, testing, and scanning the car to get it back to normal. The car started up immediately once I installed the CAS and reattached the battery cable. No clicking noises from the fuse panel. No lighting issues. It has started perfectly many times today and I took it for an hour long drive with frequent stops and starts.
I DID have a ton of error codes but was able to clear out most of them with my Foxwell scan tool.

However, I could do nothing to get rid of the error code in the picture. The code is 5DE3. «DTC—DCS Control unit encoding error»
All the DCS lights are on in the tach on the steering wheel, including a big yellow «ABS» warning light.

Nothing that I could do with the Foxwell would make the error lights go away.

I decided to text Bryce at Bimmerscan, even though it was Sunday, and let him know about the issue. I gave him the option to ignore the message and we could talk tomorrow but he responded and suggested that the «DSC unit needs to be coded, not programmed just recoded. Probably got corrupted, via battery disconnects or low voltage.» He also said that «NCSExpert can do it.»

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Unfortunately, I haven’t tried to tackle using NCSExpert yet. I’ve read about it all evening and I’ve concluded that the learning curve seems a bit steep. For now, I have to figure out some other alternative so I can get the car back to my daughter.

I’m wondering if this was somehow caused by the reprogramming of the CAS but I don’t know enough about this process to even know what, or whom, to ask.

I’ll keep everyone posted on the solution that I am hoping will come from an assist from Bryce at Bimmerscan. I will also try to connect with the Florida person that was mentioned in this thread as well.

PŘÍZNAKY:
1. Loud and persistent clicking noise coming from the fuse panel
2. Car would either start immediately, eventually start after repeated attempts and methods, or not start at all. It would turn over as long as there was enough battery power but when it wasn’t starting, nothing seemed to work. We noticed that it was most problematic when it had been sitting in the heat and direct sunlight (Houston, TX).
3. Brake lights would remain on when the car was shut off and the doors locked. This would drain the battery if not noticed.

Fix Attempts:
1. Replaced battery — it was overdue anyway.
2. Replaced alternator — it tested poorly but probably didn’t need to be replaced yet.
3. Replaced starter — It had clearly degraded in effectiveness due to some of the harsh repeated attempts to get the thing started.

Posting on behalf of my father who isn’t online but does own the problem Cooper S of the title.

Tuesday it drove fine.
This morning, ( Saturday 21st Jan ), he got in it to start it and it refused to fire. We’ve tried it quite a few times since, with the same result each time.

Turn the key, the warning lights on the speedo and rev counter go out, and all that can be heard is a clicking noise from somewhere in the engine. I’m assuming this is the starter motor but couldn’t say for sure. Also, the headlights flash rapidly for a few seconds.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with an 04 Cooper S?

Had the power steering pump replaced last year, so fairly sure it’s not that.

The wipers work, front side lights light, but not the main headlights on a dip or main beam.

237 příspěvků · Připojeno 2005

It sounds like the anti-theft system might have activated. Try locking the car and unlocking it again.

5852 příspěvků · Připojeno 2006

Almost certainly the battery has failed. is it the original BMW battery from 2004? Mine did exactly the same last month (2002) Average life of a battery is approx. 7 years

7 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011
Sounds like a weak battery. Try giving it a jump start.
1940 příspěvků · Připojeno 2004
As said, it’ll need a new battery

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1207 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011

I don’t even own a Mini.
But on another car I was convinced the clicking was a duff starter motor — turned out it was the battery (I’d have expected the knackered battery to struggle, but just caused the starter to click — odd).
So as others have said, probably the battery

130 příspěvků · Připojeno 2008

Mine did this and the flat battery was due to the thermo fan staying on to a point where the battery went dead flat. Before you buy a new battery just check that nothing «electrical» has caused it to be drained as in my case.

I had to get a new thermo fan and assembly fitted as the fault couldn’t be traced.

5852 příspěvků · Připojeno 2006

The ‘clicking’ of the starter motor is the solonoid moving the starter pinion gear into the flywheel ring-gear but then the battery does not have enough power to turn the starter motor and the engine over.

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1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2012

Hi everyone, I have a clicking sound coming from fuse F1 (Digital Engine Electronics Control Unit) when the key is in position 1. also the ABS pump is making the clicking sound, when I unplug the fuse the sound stops, but the fuse is good. Can you guys help me here!

2004 Mini Cooper S.

Bossco101 Discussion starter
2 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012

Have put the battery on charge today, and after about 5 hours it fired up with no problem.

So its definately the battery, which on closer inspection does look like the original. Can’t grumble at it going after 8 years, even if my father has only had it for 3.

Ještě jednou děkuji za vaši pomoc.

1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2015

Same problem?

I have exactly the same problem described above — horrible clicking sound when I try to turn it over.

However, everything electrical looks to be working — headlights look to be normal power, immobiliser is working etc.

As a mechanical novice, before I shell out and replace the battery (armed with you tube and a spanner), is there anything I can do to check it actually is the battery is the problem?

462 příspěvků · Připojeno 2015

You could measure the battery voltage with a meter.

Alternatively, get a jump start and see if the car starts.

Another alternative, provided you have breakdown cover, call them to come and have a look.

Snad to pomůže
1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2017

I have the same problem! it wont simply start and I am late for work! what a morning! I had battery checked, it was «GOOD» but what else must it be then? alternator??

1890 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014

When you say the Batt is good ? did you check it for voltage only or did you load test it for its CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) capability, if the batt is old and its no longer capable of supplying the required CCA the you wont start, especially on a cold day. Have the CCA capability checked and confirmed, then start fault finding for other issues.

1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2017

I’m having the same issue with a 2007 cooper. Battery has been replaced 3 times and just fitted a new one to find it still won’t turn over until jumped? Any ideas?

2 příspěvků · Připojeno 2018

I have a similar problem with my 2010 Mini Cooper. I couldn’t get it to start the other night. I have a push start. So here is what happened: I put the key in, all the lights on the dashboard and the headlights came on, but when I pushed the Start/Stop button, it would sound like it was going to crank for about one second, then quit. Then I tried a little later, and it sounded like it was going to turn over, but made this awful grinding noise. I had it jump started, which seemed like it may have helped, but I drove about a quarter mile, turned it off and couldn’t get it to start again. Again, I had it jump started. I drove it home (the symbols BRAKE and triangle with the exclaimation point with a circle around it were both on), and when I turned off the engine (the key was still in the ignition) the headlights started flickering like crazy, as well as the light on the car charger (but the lights on the dash and tachometer were fine and didn’t do anything). Also when it was doing that, I heard this weird noise that sounded like it was coming from the fuse box on the passenger side. The next day I had the battery checked at O’Reillys and they said it was good (there are no punch holes which indicate how old the battery is though). I started it up that morning, but it sounded a little sluggish when starting. I took it to the shop and they can’t seem to find anything wrong. So I was hoping that someone here would have some helpful advice.