For the past month more than in 1 occasion I cant start the car.
When i insert the key i hear the ELV, then i open the ignition to position II i hear a «bzzzz» from the engine bay , when i try to start the car nothing happens at all! I switch the key to position III and it’s dead,, no response at all!
The battery is brand new (i replaced it thinking it was the battery). When i turn the key to position II i see that the panel gives me random errors like ESP not working and Coolant System not working. then 2 out of 3 times that i tried the car would start if connected to the battery of another running car. while another time it just started without me doing anything. and whenever i manage to start it all the error codes are gonne and the car is 100% fine.
This is making my car unreliable and i cant drive out of town as i fear i will get stuck somewhere if i turn off the car ((
01-12-2014, 10:55 PM
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konec roku 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, ’65 Jaguar S Type dráty
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Check that fuse 52 is not corroded & replace 15A with 20 amp. Also check 31 & 57. I think they still apply on a diesel.
Check the starter relay
Zkontrolujte motor spouštěče
You could have an EIS that is failing.
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Glyn M Ruck
01-13-2014, 05:16 AM
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C-Class W203 2004
Thank you for your answer. I checked the fuse52 and the fuse is 25A. Should i change it with 20A. All the fuses you mention are not corroded and seem fine.
If it is a starter motor fault, why would it give the error messages about ESP or Water Coolant in the panel? Does that happen when the motor starter is faulty?
Another issue that happens sometimes is that i have a hard time with locking and unlocking the car from a distance. Checked the key at a key specialist and the key itself is fine. When it happens i need to be like 1inch away from the driver’s door to lock and unlock the car.
I was told that it might be the front fuse and relay box. Is it safe to have it removed and checked if everything looks fine on the inside of the fuse and relay box? Do you think that can be an issue that gives this sort of problems?
Sorry for the long message but this issue is really upsetting and i am really trying to figure out what is happening with my car.
Děkujeme vám za vaši pomoc!
01-13-2014, 08:44 AM
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Připojit Datum: červen 2008
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Obdržel 173 To se mi líbí u 140 příspěvků
konec roku 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, ’65 Jaguar S Type dráty
If fuse 52 is already 25 AMP leave it alone. That makes sense. The diesel cars have an uprated starter motor. Gasoline cars came with a 15 amp fuse & Benz put out a bulletin to raise it to 20 A. Blown fuse 52 is the most common cause of a no crank condition.
The locking/unlocking from a distance is dependent on the RF circuit via the rear screen antenna operating properly & the key battery & transmitter condition. Once you put the key in the EIS it is inductively energised & does not depend on it’s battery for the handshake. Close up you are depending on IR transmission via the drivers door handle sensor. Have you by any chance had a tint fitted to your windows?
The problem could be the front SAM but it is unlikely. It sounds like a failing EIS which is expensive. It could also be a CANBus issue or short.
Please get hold of an OBDII scanner & read stored codes & post them. The OBD Port is under the steering column under a rectangular cover.
See the handshake process from key to EIS in the Wiki so you understand what is going on & the start enable process.
If you can’t give us stored codes I’m afraid you need to have the car properly diagnosed with a Star DAS at a dealer. Without guidance of the stored codes it is guesswork & you have multiple trouble conditions.
you specify key is put in the ignition but dont specify if you turned it to the cranking position. You may also need to turn it off and fully turn it back all the way, then retry, Are you saying you cannot turn the key, the steering wheel lock may come into play then, so what normal function are you describing as a concern. clarify your description, please. Try turning the wheel to free the possible tension against the mechanism. try both directions and select park or neutral. apply the service brake, not the parking brake. Does the key turn ? .
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Dannyl odpověděl před 9 lety
Are your fuses and relays ok?
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Michael odpověděl před 9 lety
How do you know your battery is ok? how old is the battery? My C230 did the same same thing the lights would work be the car would not start or even click over. I replace the 3 year old battery and it solved the issue. The only other thing I would try is if you have another key you can try, if not try replacing the battery in the key itself.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 9 lety
This key gets inserted in the ignition. Then it starts taking actions by itself ? There is no start feature or function to perform? This really is different from mine. Although, the issues still never seem to change. Always seem to hear these issues, and had similar ones. On mine, I looked in the Benz Bible and there was a tiny admission about a wire, cleaning it, and, using dielectric grease. My actual cause was dirt in a connection, but it led me right beside it.
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Michael odpověděl před 9 lety
This car uses and infarred signal for the key Dannyl, Im not sure what year you have/had but these are known to be totally dead in the water when the cars battery is too low, other fuctions will work but it will not be enough power to engage the start process for the car.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 9 lety
Been having difficulty with the explaination up to now. The symptoms did not make sense, the choice of words were like a foreign language, you do not press start? the key is read infrared, then what, the car does all the thinking as soon as the key is inserted? That seemed to be what I was reading. They have asked more than one question. I suggested consulting AAA. That could raise the voltage with cables from the towtruck, or take it to mercedes. My car is older, but the issues are the same results. I carried a spare 12v battery and cables. They tested the battery numerous times with their chinese hand held tester at the parts store. kept telling me I was crazy. I questioned their lack of actual automotive test equipment used by automotive technicians. They think their calculator is a vat40. I bought an interstate battery. tapped on the starter, started it and drove home in the snow. Your battery theory is sound.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 9 lety
A vat40, is a carbon pile tester used for a battery load test. They were used for like 50 years. Their displays were extra large so one person could do all the testing, the thinking, the observation of instruments, they could get a battery to show it’s true colors. they could identify a cell that was dropping the voltage. There are these estimating, hand held, battery selling tools nowadays. They really are great, they help the parts store, you dont clean connections anymore! awesome, thanks my friend for the time to explain.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 9 lety
I dont mean to sound like you did anything, it is just frustrating when the description does not include the steps and compare to known functioning vehicles. But does compare to past non functioning ones.
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Nadz answered 8 years ago
I seem to be having same problem. I have a C Class 320 CDI about 7 years old, I’ve had the car for over 4 years and touchwood have had no major problems. The EMC light came on recently and had all ‘Glow Plugs’ changed and EMC reset. A few days later while on the motorway the EMC light appeared again, but no loss of power. I went to start the car this morning and doors opened, interior lights came on, however when I tried to start the car, no ignition lights came on nor would the engine start. The key was turning, but nothing else. I tried with the spare key and tried to jump start, but again no ignition lights. originally I thought that the issue was not battery related, however reading this post I may change the battery as I’ve not replaced it and had the car for over 4 years. Any help would be appreciated. thx
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
It is possible for a battery to be sulfated (losing usable space within) «capacity» at 4 years. That can reduce capacity it must be rated for and still posess. A battery rated better than enough has always been the answer when I have serviced Merc’s. They usually have just one or two that would work in the merc’s that i have fixed or done research for. This means selecting a very good brand and warranty is a must. I should point out that on mine, which is simpler, had an insulated starter connection. Insulated by dirt and oil and cooked where the starter brushes get power from the solenoid, very unusual. But throughout it’s life it has driven people to sell it off and not complete the diagnosis. Labor is high for the starter and you cannot see it. The benz bible reported that one little issue about power from there to the instruments and switch for starting. The resistance makes the circuits use more amps to do their thing. the battery wears down, and the alternator has a rating that takes it longer to fully recharge. In my case, having to connect a second battery to get the capacity in the snow proved both things to be true. The part store tester’s prediction based on averages did not actually perform a real life load test, And they always assume your alternator will charge you up as you drive. Sadly, they are to young or inexperienced to see why a tech uses a true carbon pile for problematic vehicles. The 30+ year merc tech I talked with about it mentioned the starter connection should be coated with dielectric after the cleaning, assembly, and tightening, to prevent any substance from «running in» So now on your vehicle? your wire connections? voltage drop tests can be your proof if it is difficult to inspect. Then if power supply is not your issue, but function of a control module? that can move the attention to a different connection in a different location. Being diesel makes it more critical for you to have the best battery in the winter.
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Denise odpověděla před 8 lety
MY mL350 dash started reading «this key does not belong to this car». What’s going on? Can I still drive the car/
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forwd answered 8 years ago
Hopefully this helps someone. Put key in and dash said take key out of ignition. Car was completely dead. No noise/crank at all. Dash lights and headlights went on, but windows and sunroof would not budge (they were rolled down). As an aside I got the windows up by stepping out of the car and using the exterior window/sunroof feature by aiming the key at the door. My first thought was battery may be drained so I tried to jump start which failed. I was worried about repeatedly trying to start and risking electronics problem so I bought a new battery. I replaced the battery that evening, but car still would not start and steering wheel was still locked in. I happened to read a post that someone had put their finger where the key fits and jiggled it to possibly reset a spring. This did not work at the time, and not sure if it was a coincidence but although the car still did not start, the message saying take key out of ignition went off after I did that. I still figured no luck with the new battery and there is a bigger issue. Later on the guys that sold the battery exclaimed it can take awhile for a Mercedes to relearn and acclimate to a new battery (longer than most cars so patience may be helpful if possible). The next day I went out tried the car and no luck, then tried to lightly giggle inside where the key fits again (agian not sure how much this helped). I put the key back in and the steering wheel unlocked and car started but stalled. Tired to restart again and it started with no problem. Wanting to find out if it was really the old battery that caused the issue I brought it in and had them test it at the counter. They looked at it and said it was dead based on the black dot on the top. However, they plugged it into the tester and said it had 12.5 volts and said that should have been enough to start. As I talked to them, I was wondering if there was a drain so they plugged it back in and it dropped to 12.3 volts. I had them keep it over night to charge all the way and then test. The next day I called in and they said the old battery was good. However, remembering the drain from the initial test I asked them to recheck because the battery had been off its charge for awhile since they fully charged it. Theyd re-tested, and said it now came up as bad battery. They explained to me that there could be a short or bad cell in the battery and that was the reason for it first reporting good battery and then a while later saying bad battery on the test. They exclaimed that I may not have been able to get the wheel unlocked and start right away because it can take awhile (Mercedes and BMW’s especially ) to relearn their functions when replacing the battery.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
You can try to get an indication from the eye atop the battery. a green eye tries to indicate good as far as reading a surface charge atop the electrolyte/water solution inside. it is not really a go/nogo, but an indication. a clear eye can mean «discharged», and a black eye means «do not charge». when a green eye reading is orange or yellow to red, it can indicate needs charge-up. still, this indicator is not even 80% accurate, and tests should be run. a carbon pile tester actually uses current and load tests a battery. Once a surface charge is removed, readings can be believed. The actual load uses current from the battery, and the volt drop during the test as well as the recovery are the actual indicators. The wait for cool idea is very good. and the monitor for self discharge is also. You can have a hard time finding a journeyman or mastertech when you need them.(Thanks Ronny), they get paid. but they would answer this free of charge and let the machine do the work. Try to use them for help if you can still find a shop where you can establish a rapport, and situations like this occur. They encourage nothing but reliable parts and equipment and dont put stock in testers or ideas from china for the mostpart. The black is the indication to heed. That can mean, «self discharges and internally damaged» Technicians agree, when you see the black indicator, you can save oodles of time. The part is considered unsafe in the shop. you write N/G on it and cover its posts. locate it with returns going to scrap. I have seen a frozen battery saved after indicating damaged. it was thawed and days later it was carefully brought back but used to run a very small application. This type experiment should never be thought to be put back in service.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
This should be noted about those glow indicators too. the eye having color can still fail tests, and having no color or black should be taken to a qualified person for evaluation. The electrolyte level can be low or the battery can be already scrap. charging, if the smell was not an indication. could result in an acid shower. that is why specially trained and educated people were employed to help at one time.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
You may decide to google ( battery service with an eye ) This shows that sealed batteries are of a construct that limits you to just a few tests and since you cannot service them, you end up replacing them. The type you actually have can be determined to help decipher what it’s doing, what it is, what indication, and what it means. you will see there, yellow means no charge. Claims do not include danger about any indication The batteries I see for sale lately at parts houses have curiously returned to caps on top, hydrometers for sale, DVOM’s for sale, and they use a handheld tester from china, battery prices have doubled. Happy motoring.
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
Since the application here is a merc, it really limits the choices available for correct specs and battery fit. just say you want the best one they have for your mercedes and the warranty that fully backs the product the longest. When you try saving money? It is about the place you choose. Know your needed info before you start asking, and smooth out the process.
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anenin answered 8 years ago
I threw my key and when it hit the concrete it came apart and I put it back together and it locks and unlocks good but when I put the key in the ignition it doesn’t turn or nun like that what can I do?
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
Are you starting a different subject? anenin If that’s true, you need to ask a question of your own, give the vehicle info and as always with mercedes, are you sure you own one.
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Trialkat answered 8 years ago
I have no answer but a similar question. My c230 with a strong battery, key turns, car cranks but will not start or run. Mercedes has it but is not giving me a diagnosis. Initial impression was it is not getting fuel. Any idea on what might be calling this?
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Dannyl odpověděl před 8 lety
Starting a new question with all your vehicle information is the best medicine for feeling unsure. The new thread attracts strong answers when they know what it is, and what it has. loss of spark may cancel fuel? who knows ? many vehicles are designed like that. give the pertinent info in a new question please. learn about that fuel system in use in that vehicle.
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Grejdi answered 7 years ago
I have change the battery key and it can open just the door but it can start the car.car model is c class 2008 why?thank a lot
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Giselle answered 7 years ago
I’m having same issue w my car as Trialkat. 2002 mercedes c230k coupe. new battery, new alternator, fuel pump tested (works), stil car cranks but won’t start or stay on
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candho answered 7 years ago
my car is not starting no dhash board lighting c200
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Becky odpověděla před 7 lety
My problem is a 2008 Mercedes-Benz my key isn’t starting
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Rated_jackfrost answered 7 years ago
Hej. So u guys. I have a 2006 mecedes c class 230. Ok. Nice lil whip. So I just got said car ABOUT A WEEK AGO. Lol. Smh So said car stops at the drive in. My Benz. I was so distraught. So anywho, i tried to jump it, nothing. But the weird thing is that I had just replaced to headlight. The driver side low beam went out, so of course I replaced it myself. I kno not to touch it so no oIL can destroy the light or whatever. I used a glove when performing the task at hand. So long story short I tried tinkering with it. But ended up calling a tow truck cause they, sonic, were about to close. And u kno it’s a front wheel drive so u can’t push it. And I hope u guys are familiar with the tow tool. Cause without it I would have bit the dust. I had never even heard of it. I just want to also add for the record this my first foreign car. I usually ride camaro. Vyzyvatel. Or tahoe. So anyway, I pay 90 to have this man drag my car to my apartment, mind u, he only tows it .2 miles. I had actually walked home and back before dude got there. But anywho, he towed it home and dude let’s it off, y’all tell me why dude tapped on my starter, got it in my car, and crank that shit right up. I was so estatic, not because I had just been ripped of, but at least I knew this bitch still had a little life left. Lol. I mean it’s a 2006 Benz right at 100k. So it’s decent. It’s the sport moder or whatever. Not the kompressor. But initially, when I tried to start it for him at the sonic drive in, he was certain it was the fuel pump. But once we got home, he claims he tapped on the starter and that it was loose, and this is what made him able to start the car. I know you guys are gonna ask so here are specifics. Before he came I tried letting it cool down for 15 mins. Pak. I popped the hood. Opened and closed the gas tank. I had about half full, I checked the fuses, but with only a high beam flashlight. To make sure none had burned. Buy that time I had called my friend, who recommend this place to me for foreign cars, the dealer. So after none of that worked, I knew it had to be the alternator or starter from when my challenger blew. The mercedes would turn. All the lights worked, including the new driver side lowbeam headlamp. I don’t have any other alerts. Only warnings about low headlight beam . No tmps or warning lights appear. The sunroof and everything works. So I knew it couldn’t have been the battery. I did read on another Form that a low battery key could cause this too. I’m gonna Change the battery for my key, and have the cars battery tested. I had a challenger not start because of that too, a low battery key. And the same way. All the lights, and a turn. But no idle. So tonight I’m gonna let it rest. I’m here in Dallas Texas, it’s 2 am here at 7, I’m gonna go replace the headlamp again, buy I won’t drive it until 10 when I take it back to the dealer to get a better understanding of what the hell is going on. I also want to add that the drivers mirror light has been out for a while. But the low headlamp drivers side was as recent as today.the car was not running hot and the ac was blowing on cold. And before my car started. Before he towed it. From the sonic I want to make it clear that I did remove the headlamp. But only because like I say , this my first foreign and I kno these hoes wishy-washy. So feel free to chime in or tell me what to try or what to expect . Vědění je moc. And power is love.
