The ECU removal process was fairly simple thanks to A_loha_4 and Ben@Oettinger who provided me with some great info. It took just under an hour using the cutting method but wouldnt take much longer using the heating method.
Even though the security screws are destroyed during the process you are able to order new ones and assemble the ECU back to its original condition.
Čísla součástí
Break off Security Screws ECU (Green): #.
Break off Security Screws Bracket: #.
(If anyone has the part numbers for these screws can you please provide them so I can add them in.)
If you choose Option 1 (Cutting Method) to remove the bracket it will also be destroyed. To reassemble the ECU you don’t need this bracket but for those who want it back to its original condition you can order the bracket from your Audi Dealer.
Čísla součástí
Security Bracket Top: 8E0 907 500 L
Security Bracket Bottom: 8E0 907 411 J
Write Up to remove ECU *Note performed on RHD vehicle but LHD should be a mirror image in regards to location of ECU.
The ECU is located on the drivers side under the plastic engine covers between the firewall and engine bay. In order gain access to it the ECU its plastic protective cover needs to be removed. This cover is held down with 5 Torx #30 screws. One of the Torex screws is in a really awkward position and in order to reach it the windshield wiper is removed and this allows for the plastic cover beneath it to be lifter to reach the Torex screw. The windscreen wiper can be difficult to remove. Once the main nut is removed grip the wiper and as evenly as possible pull on it outwards. It may take several goes but it will eventually pop out. Otherwise a «Tie Rod End & Putman Arm Puller» tool (Part #W80557) made by Performance Tools can be purchased from NAPA which will do the job easily.
Once the cover is removed you will see the ECU is held in place by a spring strip.
By removing the spring strip you now can move the ECU around as the cables connected to it have a bit of slack.
Two of the security bolts (Green ones) that are connected to the ECU can be removed with ease. The other two have been fastened by blue loctite and are a PITA to remove.
To remove the green security bolts just get the dremel out and cut a slot into them.
Then using a large flat head screwdriver just unscrew them
Now for the next step there are two options.
— Option 1 is to cut the bracket (easy but the bracket is destroyed)
— Option 2 is to heat up the screws and remove them (a bit of patience and caution is required)
Option #1 — Cutting Method
Flip the ECU over and on the right hand side you will see the brackets edge width is smaller. Just cut carefully using the dremel as its the shortest distance and away from cables etc.
Once cut we just expand the bracket and peel it off the ECU connectors.
Unplug the connector (by pulling a small flap outward on each side) and your done.
Option #2 — Heating Method
Get the dremel out and cut a slots into the remaining security screws.
This process does heat them up but not enough to melt the loctite. Now continue to heat them up by either attaching a wire wheel to the dremel and basically go over the screw until its super hot or an easier way is to use a lighter and burn the bottom end of the screw (see image below) for about 30 — 45 seconds. Don’t worry the powder coat wont melt or even be damaged by this just be very cautious not to set alight anything. Once the screw is hot enough try and unscrew it, it should turn very easily with minimal force. If it doesn’t its not hot enough.
Once the screws are removed separate the two bracket pieces which uncover the ECU connectors. Unplug the connector (by pulling a small flap outward on each side) and your done.
Last edited by mrponline; 01-15-2007 at 03:22 AM . Reason: Info Updated
2008 Audi S 5 6MT
Phantom Black, 20″ Forged DPE 3 Piece Wheels, Nitto Invo 285/25 Tyres, H&R Suspension
