Coming from a Toyota tech, it sounds like the starter contacts are worn and time for a starter rebuild. parts are only available from toyota and and not expensive, and labour should be 1.5 hours.
Nemůžete posílat komentáře, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu.
Anonymní
- Odpovědi 19
- Publikováno dne 10. února 2009
sounds to me that you have an igniton problem not a starter problem and or if you have or had an alarm system could be cause if u do give me feedback and i will explain but seems that your starter is fine from what u say but if you think in terms of the elemts to start a vehicle batery gives pwoer to ignition which sends to starter which gives spark etc i would check you ignition system something is causeing a short and not alowing starter to function
Nemůžete posílat komentáře, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu.
Anonymní
- Odpovědi 3600
- Publikováno 18. června 2009
Yes they do but I would rather think you have a bad battery cabe connection to the system, sometimes the battery cable corrudes and you can’t see it try replacing the cable ends and the connector ends espically if they are by the battery.
Nemůžete posílat komentáře, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu.
Anonymní
- Odpovědi 3
- Publikováno 07. července 2009
put key in trunk and pop it try this it may work
Nemůžete posílat komentáře, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu.
Anonymní
- Odpovědi 1986
- Publikováno dne 12. srpna 2009
Curious, do you have an autostart installed? I had that happen that the Autostart shorted and just kept telling my starter to continue cranking
Nemůžete posílat komentáře, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu.
Přidejte svou odpověď
Tipy na skvělou odpověď:
- – Odpovědět na otázku.
- — Pokud potřebujete vysvětlení, zeptejte se ho v poli pro komentáře výše.
- — Lepší odpovědi používají správný pravopis a gramatiku.
- — Poskytněte podrobnosti, podporu s referencemi nebo osobními zkušenostmi.
Řekněte nám ještě něco! Vaše odpověď musí obsahovat více podrobností, aby pomohla lidem. Nemůžete zveřejňovat odpovědi, které obsahují e-mailovou adresu. Prosím zadejte platnou emailovou adresu. Zadaná e-mailová adresa je již přidružena k účtu. Přihlaste se pro příspěvek Používejte pouze anglické znaky.
Tip: Maximální bodová odměna za zodpovězení otázky je 15.
Nahrajte obrázek ze svého počítače
Nakreslete rámeček nad problémem!!
Zavřít Uložit změny
Přílohy: Přidané položky
Nahrávání: %
můj-video-soubor.mp4
Kompletní. Kliknutím na „Přidat“ vložíte své video. Přidat
Načítání.
Zahrnout obrázek. Stojí to za tisíc slov.
Související dotazy:
Why my car wont start? I turn my key and no power. new fuses and starter relay. What’s possible?
how about starting with using a meter to check power to relay —starter-wiring-connections-key failure -ignition switch[system]-before touching or jumping to ecm
02. února 2022 • Osobní a nákladní automobily
I have a 2004 ford expedition that wouldn’t turn over. All it would do is click at the starter. I replaced the starter and ground cable and it worked fine for 2 weeks. Yesterday it cranked fast and started.
Be sure immobilizer isnt activating. The anti theft light needs to go out and stop flashing when you turn the ignition key from off to run, otherwise no crank in start position.
25. listopadu 2019 • Automobily a nákladní automobily Ford
C230 2005 will not start
If it fails to turn over then check on battery condition and on battery connections (do full beam headlights stay consistently bright for ten minutes). If Ok then check on wiring to and from starter motor and on condition of starter motor brushes. If turning over can you hear the fuel pump running; whirring sound when key at position prior to ‘start’. If no fuel pump check on fuse for pump relay, check on relay, check on voltage at pump. If pump supplied with voltage but not running give it knock to see if you can get some kind of response from it. If completely dead replace pump and filter assembly.
1. No Crank when I turn the key for ignition. (No clicks when turning the key into the 3rd position, 2nd starts the coolant pump). The battery is brand new and jumping does nothing (terminals all clean). I have had the battery/alternator workshop light on everyday, even after I replaced the battery (tested battery first).
1. Headlights don’t dim when I turn the key for ignition.
2. Push starting my car by dropping into 2nd gear works fine and I was able to drive my car home.
3. Tried my backup key with the same results.
1. Check the starter fuse.
2. Check fault code.
3. Check the manual for security disabling the starter?
Nějaké další nápady?
BTW: My car also has the dreaded rough idle if I let the RPMs drop below 800 at rest in neutral. I am accustomed to having my foot rest slightly on the throttle at stops. To pass DEQ I zip-tie my gas slightly to keep the RPMs around 1000 so I don’t get a check engine light. Always figured it was a vacuum line issue but I have seen a variety of answers on the forums.
1061 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011
the starter may use a fusible link? lots of cars do but not sure about MB. that is basically a cable with an encased wire that will melt (cutting off current) to prevent overload/fire, like a giant fuse. if you know how, you can check whether the starter is getting power with a test light at the starter terminal. any shop could do it in 5 minutes. you have to be real careful because the starter is wired directly to the battery (has power even with ignition off) and you can do some arc welding if you bridge the wrong terminals.
the starter may also be dead.
the starter solenoid may also be stuck; an old trick is to whack it with a screwdriver handle to try to get it to unstick.
2005 C230 kompressor sport, 6-speed manual
Porsche 1982 SC z roku 911
Hookah_John Discussion starter
17 příspěvků · Připojeno 2008
Tested the power to the starter, getting over 12V. Going to have the starter replaced tomorrow. Checking the OBD 2 code for the battery/alternator warning.
68 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
Any update or the outcome of this- I have same issues
1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2015
Same issue here. Starter and solenoid see 12V but no click, no noise. Experiencing identical no crank, no start condition.
I’d very much appreciate any insight into this.
Hookah_John Discussion starter
17 příspěvků · Připojeno 2008
Had to replace the bad starter, everything works fine. You can’t use the old method of hitting the starter to temporarily get by due to physical construction and type of components in newer starters (Bench Testing a Starter Motor).
If you have the same year range or model as me (03 C230), and have ECU, electrical, and/or emission systems issues that go with misfires at idle speed, I have them, they suck, and I have spent a lot of time in and on my car to try and fix them. Currently at the point where my trusted mechanic has recommended replacing my ECU (we tried re-flashing the ECU using his STAR setup, helped with a random limp mode condition I couldn’t fix). Car isn’t worth a lot these days especially with DEQ passing issues (2nd Air and EVAP don’t ever want to get ready statuses) but it still runs and drives well at 135k miles. Going to run it into the ground, hoping it will last me past 160k.
If you have any related issues, feel free to PM me or respond in the threads. I have been there, I am still there, and maybe I can provide some information you don’t have.
Good luck out there,
John Herboth
1 příspěvek · Připojeno 2020
8 have same issue no crank no start.. i replaced starter old one was bad. .. same thing happening.. i cheched fuses. Battery ok . I was wondering if it was possible if it had to do with the crankshaft sensor? Would that make vehicle no crank no start?
25933 příspěvků · Připojeno 2004
CPS would not affect «cranking» — only «running». In other words, the CPS will have no effect on the starter’s ability to rotate the flywheel, but once the engine is cranking, if it does not fire, that COULD be caused by a bad CPS. Without a valid CPS signal, the ECU will not engage the fuel pump.
— Rodney
Birmingham, Alabama (USA) — Aktuální: 2011 SL550, Bývalý: 2011 C300, 2010 ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, 2002 C240, 2001 ML320, 1984 300TD
6 příspěvků · Připojeno 2019
Basically just try to get a diagnosis by the OBD2 system. Buy one cheap, because you will need it multiple times and will save some money.
Příčiny:
The ECU is paired with the key and the steering lock. If the ECU or someone of these parts receives water or humidity that can cause this kind of issue.
1.- Check the ECU and fuse connections for rust (take them out one by one and review its connection zone, and do the same with the relays, almost all have three fuses zones, front driver side, at the driver’s door, and in the rear driver’s side).
2- listen for a click when the key is on and try to turn the steering wheel.
If you can turn the key, then the steering lock can be the issue. You can buy a substitute it cheap with a lock simulator, but the headache is getting out the old one (must take out the steering wheel system complete if is locked).
If you can turn the key and can turn the steering wheel freely (get it unlocked), then maybe the alarm system could derivate the issue.
3.- If you can not turn the key, then the issue will be between ECU and the keyhole or alarm system too.
4.- And also the key is connected to the shifter box, so get sure can move the shifter to park and neutral after opening the key. If not, surely the trouble is there. Shifting box can lose a little lock in the mechanical area and causes look like is in «parking» but it really doesn’t. The way to know that checks if the car can move freely (not in the park stage). If you drop liquids in the shifter this can happen too.