My friend’s i10 AT, 2012 model’s key has been misplaced. He still has the spare but wants to get a new one made in the event that this one key might also be lost. Any idea how much would a new key cost?
If your friend is in Delhi (going by your profile location), this guy might be useful — http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/delhi-. l-gurgaon.html
Původně odeslal i10 (Post 3610685)
If your friend is in Delhi (going by your profile location), this guy might be useful — http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/delhi-. l-gurgaon.html
No sir he is in Vadodara. The above link looks promising. Any idea if he can make another key from just the spare? Or will they be needing the car too ( which is not possible in my case). Hyundai people are apparently asking for close to 10k for it.
Původně odeslal drmohitg (Post 3610688)
Hyundai people are apparently asking for close to 10k for it.
The spare key would do it. But getting the flippy types would be doubtful.
10K for what? There is a small metal piece that comes with every key which bears a 5-6 digit code which is linked to that particular key pair. Shouldn’t they be able to provide if that code is given?
Is it for the above Hyundai asking 10K?
I plan to get my i10 kappa2’s engine oil and filter changed from an FNG. Which is a recommended mineral oil to buy?
Mineral only.
I own a 2012 model Hyundai I10. The car was manufactured in Mar 2012 and i purchased the same in Jan 2013. The mileage was just 50 Kms at the time of delivery. The car is driven single handed and has run 11.5K in last 2 years.
Overall, i am satisfied with the car except for some minor issues.
Low end torque is the main trouble. I often stall the engine in traffic signals and will be able to move from a stand still only after raising the RPM upto 1K.
And the Idle RPM is also way too low. It is around 600 RPM when the car reaches the operating temperature.
FE is also less. Gives me 12~13 KMPL in City with 30% AC and 17~18 KMPL in Highways with 90% AC. I raised both concerns during all the 3 free services. But the problems were never attended in any of the services.
Once i got an opportunity to drive my Friends Grand I10. I found that the same 1.2L Kappa2 engine in Grand I10 (Ofcourse with different Tuning) has a good low end Torque compared to Mine.
Now my question is,
1. Is it possible to Tune my car’s Engine to that of Grand I10’s ?
2. Is it possible to remap my Cars ECU with that of Grand I10’s ?
3. Or Resetting my car’s Own ECU will help in any case ?
Can the experts throw light on my questions please ?
I have the i10 with 1.2L Kappa engine. I thought this car was really shining in this area, and I am perfectly happy with my car’s performance.
I doubt it is worth the effort of remapping the ECU for this purpose. I feel it is better to work on the gears and in my driving experience with i10, it just does it right. Are you trying to pull the car on near standstill from 2nd gear or above? Why would the engine RPM be a concern at all, even at idle at the first place? I have driven Xcent (Compact sedan sibling of Grand i10 with same engine), and I can feel a difference in the higher gears in continuing on slow moving traffic, whereas I had to shift down in i10. But in reality it is not too much, often the earlier driving habits just continues. I would just shift to 3rd for that extra punch ( anticipated) and in my observation, you feel at home with this new engine too.
Also in my experience, a heavy foot really takes away fuel efficiency drastically in i10 than any other cars that i have driven so far. But if driven calm, and the fuel efficiency is acceptable. The good thing I felt is that i10 lets you do both these and it is purely our choice that makes fuel efficiency bad or acceptable. It seems to come no closer to Maruti. Also I felt with a pedal to metal, response is good when there is a demand (Of course it works only up to 3rd gear), though conditions apply (not with 5 reasonably fed adults inside).
That’s just my two cents based on my experience with my i10 and having test driven the Xcent pretty recently. Disclaimer is that I am no expert in this engine ECU remapping and worthiness of it.
Původně odeslal 333 (Post 3648926)
I own a 2012 model Hyundai I10. The car was manufactured in Mar 2012 and i purchased the same in Jan 2013. The mileage was just 50 Kms at the time of delivery. The car is driven single handed and has run 11.5K in last 2 years.
Overall, i am satisfied with the car except for some minor issues.
Low end torque is the main trouble. I often stall the engine in traffic signals and will be able to move from a stand still only after raising the RPM upto 1K.
And the Idle RPM is also way too low. It is around 600 RPM when the car reaches the operating temperature.
FE is also less. Gives me 12~13 KMPL in City with 30% AC and 17~18 KMPL in Highways with 90% AC. I raised both concerns during all the 3 free services. But the problems were never attended in any of the services.
Once i got an opportunity to drive my Friends Grand I10. I found that the same 1.2L Kappa2 engine in Grand I10 (Ofcourse with different Tuning) has a good low end Torque compared to Mine.
Now my question is,
1. Is it possible to Tune my car’s Engine to that of Grand I10’s ?
2. Is it possible to remap my Cars ECU with that of Grand I10’s ?
3. Or Resetting my car’s Own ECU will help in any case ?
Can the experts throw light on my questions please ?
Spot on regarding the stalling issue. I have observed that all persons taking my i10 for the first time have stalled it.So to speak, even one of the service assistants stalled it while taking into the workshop. Exactly like you said, a pre-calculated throttle input is required in the first gear to prevent stalling. Now I have learned to live with it. Surprisingly there is no such issue with my friend’s first generation i10. I used to complain during services initially but they could do nothing. Adjusting the slow speed etc was futile. Don’t know whether tuning will solve the issue.
Původně odeslal roby.thomas (Post 3648949)
I have the i10 with 1.2L Kappa engine. I thought this car was really shining in this area, and I am perfectly happy with my car’s performance.
I doubt it is worth the effort of remapping the ECU for this purpose. I feel it is better to work on the gears and in my driving experience with i10, it just does it right. Are you trying to pull the car on near standstill from 2nd gear or above? Why would the engine RPM be a concern at all, even at idle at the first place? I have driven Xcent (Compact sedan sibling of Grand i10 with same engine), and I can feel a difference in the higher gears in continuing on slow moving traffic, whereas I had to shift down in i10. But in reality it is not too much, often the earlier driving habits just continues. I would just shift to 3rd for that extra punch ( anticipated) and in my observation, you feel at home with this new engine too.
Also in my experience, a heavy foot really takes away fuel efficiency drastically in i10 than any other cars that i have driven so far. But if driven calm, and the fuel efficiency is acceptable. The good thing I felt is that i10 lets you do both these and it is purely our choice that makes fuel efficiency bad or acceptable. It seems to come no closer to Maruti. Also I felt with a pedal to metal, response is good when there is a demand (Of course it works only up to 3rd gear), though conditions apply (not with 5 reasonably fed adults inside).
That’s just my two cents based on my experience with my i10 and having test driven the Xcent pretty recently. Disclaimer is that I am no expert in this engine ECU remapping and worthiness of it.
Agree with you on the fuel efficiency . I have been consistently getting 13.5-14.5 kmpl ( 70% highway and 30% city with AC on all the time ).Never reached the 18-19 figure. With occasional spirited drive of course:). But the stalling issue is there for me too. Making her move from standstill in first gear of course is tricky.It is not as care free as similar ones from the same segment.
Cannot agree more with you regarding the good response on pedal to metal, but redlining her many times is (sigh).
Původně odeslal šaša (Post 3649806)
Surprisingly there is no such issue with my friend’s first generation i10. I used to complain during services initially but they could do nothing. Adjusting the slow speed etc was futile. Don’t know whether tuning will solve the issue.
I think mine is the first gen i10, so maybe that I really don’t have that issue. By the way, when I kept thinking about it and realized I too have stalled it, but I attribute that to a different problem. For me, this issue was more apparent at my in-law’s house where they have a very steep climb from the private compound road to the main road with slippery gravel on approach. The funny part is that my good old humble Maruti 800 5-speed MPFI, My in-law’s non-MPFI Maruti 800, my sister’s A-star, and a couple of other Wagon R and Alto all take on this with zero fuss, but I do sweat to take my i10 out of it. Either the engine will stall, and if I mange to keep it revving, then the front wheel will spin.
To me I felt the difference is in the purely mechanical clutch of i10 compared to the hydraulic assisted one in all of these other cars. I could never believe it until the Hyundai service centre confirmed that it doesn’t have hydraulic assist. The classic i10 clutch cannot be smoothly engaged/dis-engaged and this is most prominent at first gear. This sudden unexpected transition is what causes me the stall, not really the engine’s capability. This hard clutch becomes more irritating as it gets aged. This is the sore point I felt in Hyundai i10. I believe they have been made hydraulic fluid assisted in the Grand i10 and above, hence the difference.
I am going to discuss one issue which I don’t understand.
Our car has got misaligned three times during last 4-5 KM. I never understood the reason. The stock Apollo wore out from between 29K-34K KM duration. They had looked good for around 15KM before all this started. I believed that tires wore out suddenly due to frequent misalignments. A.S.S. had found nothing wrong with suspension set-up during two of the checks (the misalignments were huge, so, I took to A.S.S. after every realignment ). A.S.S. had told me that car was getting misaligned due to worn out tires!
I was never convinced. Still, as tires had worn out, took our i10 for new shoes during the weekend. Nondescript town (my hometown in Sonepat, Haryana) and a barely running tyre shop (but authorized dealers). Changed to Bridgestone B250 175/70/R13. So far, so good.
The complementary alignment activity ran for like two hours. The guy took two test drives and made innumerable adjustments. Tried to explain something wrt angles which I could not understand due to my poor maths. The bottomline is, that, he did some Caster adjustment (I guess he tightened some screw in the proximity of the brake calipers).
After the end of the exercise, the steering felt way lighter, maybe more precise than ever in my recent memories. He told me this adjustment was not done during previous alignments (which is true, include A.S.S. alignments) and not everyone knows what it is.
I admit that I have no idea what happened, what was wrong or what he fixed. Can someone help me in understanding this issue?
Experts need an opinion.
I have an i10 2010 model auto without ABS. Recently i started observing that the car does not stop properly when i brake hard. Morning time after first start, the brakes are very crisp for few hundred meters and then once i brake hard the car stops very slowly. It is very similar to an old amby brake. Booster and master cylinders were replaced to trouble shoot and the pads, disc and liners are in good shape. Hyundai service center acknowledged the problem but they are not able to give a fix. Any one had similar issues or any one knows a fix, please help.
Díky,
Ajith
I just picked up an used 2009 Sportz AT. Run about 49K kms. The dealership gave me a basic service with both oil replacement. What else should I be aware of at this mileage? Replaced the tires to MRF.
Please share some best practices/tips & tricks to keep this running well for a year or two. Also the previous owner misplaced the duplicate key. Please let me know process to obtain new one. Can it be sourced outside? Assuming a normal key fob without chip cannot be used.
Původně odeslal atnyia (Post 3659620)
I am going to discuss one issue which I don’t understand.
.
I admit that I have no idea what happened, what was wrong or what he fixed. Can someone help me in understanding this issue?
Možná by to pomohlo:
Původně odeslal mail4ajo (Post 3813239)
I just picked up an used 2009 Sportz AT. Run about 49K kms. The dealership gave me a basic service with both oil replacement. What else should I be aware of at this mileage? Replaced the tires to MRF.
Please share some best practices/tips & tricks to keep this running well for a year or two. Also the previous owner misplaced the duplicate key. Please let me know process to obtain new one. Can it be sourced outside? Assuming a normal key fob without chip cannot be used.
Check your battery and brake pads. These things start to go bad at this point. Also if not done earlier, a coolant flush is due. Change the wipers. Also check all lights — inside and out. Change the air filter.
Bumping up an old thread.
My aunt’s i10 has completed 6 years and needs some works on the suspension and door / dashboard rattles. Can anyone suggest a reliable FNG at Indore for these jobs? The Hyundai service centre is estimating a cost of 10,000/- for that.
Bumping up an old thread.
A friend’s 2011 model i10 is getting really uncomfortable over undulations and speed breakers. The suspension makes a sound everytime it gets worked. The sound is similar to filling up a vacuum and then releasing it. Rear comfort was poor anyway but has gotten worse.
What are his options? I believe the shockers are oil based and will need complete replacement. Are third party shockers better than Hyundai’s?
Původně odeslal Nonstop-driver (Post 4120526)
Bumping up an old thread.
A friend’s 2011 model i10 is getting really uncomfortable over undulations and speed breakers. The suspension makes a sound everytime it gets worked. The sound is similar to filling up a vacuum and then releasing it. Rear comfort was poor anyway but has gotten worse.
What are his options? I believe the shockers are oil based and will need complete replacement. Are third party shockers better than Hyundai’s?
I recently sorted an i10’s suspension. Bought it used and it’s ride was bumpy and used to make noises. First check suspension mount rubber bushes and link rods. Shockers will need replacement if they show oil leak or depress them see if they bounce back instantly or not. One important thing I learnt is that link rods are tied with a black rod that runs whole width under the belly of car and it has two rubbers that hold it in place. If it develops play the bumpiness increases. I got those changed too and bumpiness reduced to great extent.
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The Hyundai i10 1.0 MPi is No1 on motoring mag Auto Express’s table of slowcoaches.
But all ten are typically more affordable — to buy, run and insure — and still come with the same gadgets and extras of faster models.
The one-litre engine Hyundai i10 is followed by similar-sized cars from Renault, Dacia, Kia and Skoda.
And even though they are the UK’s slowest accelerating new cars, they are quicker than vehicles in the 1970s and 1980s.
The respected magazine said: “The models on this list of slowest cars take leisurely performance to the next level.
“In some you may even find it difficult to keep up with the flow of traffic on faster roads.
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«Quick exits from busy junctions are likely to be stressful, and overtaking manoeuvres may need extra forward planning.”
But it added: “Many of these cars will offer cheap insurance, which makes them good first cars.
“Plus, you don’t need lots of power if you’re going to drive mainly around town.”
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