My A/C had been leaking around the filler valve core, i put a new one in it last night but had to completely drain all the refrigerant out of it. I put one 14oz can in it last night but today it took over 30 minutes for me to stop sweating on my drive home. My compressor seems to be working ok it just never has blown cold air. Do you think the 14oz can should have filled the system back up or do you think i have another leak or other problem? Thanks in advance. Its Very hot down here.
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Připojit Datum: červen 2008
Location: central fla
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
Browntown:
sorry bout the sweat bro, but ya gotta tell us what year and model ya got! There are some good Saturn techs here who can help you troubleshoot this, and some diy’s with frayed knuckles like myself, but other than seeing you on the «S» forum, we’re all in the dark.
mike in fla
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2003 L-Sedan 3.0L Sedan
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
As mentioned before, you car stats being posted would help. The amount of refrigerant required is printed on a label in the engine area. I think its 1.5lbs or 24ozs or two 12oz (net wgt) cans. You’re shy one can. More importantl,y you avoided the necessity of completely evacuating the system of any air and/or moisture that may have been sucked in from the valve stem leak that can cause long term damage internally. If your system leaked out then there is always the possibility of air/moisture being sucked into the system that combines to create an acid eventually ruining the entire system from inside out. All a/c systems are sealed pressurized systems. Once the seal has broken refrigerant leaks out and air will be drawn in to combine with refrigerant and oil to create damaging acids. Once a repair is complete, the evacuation pump is vždy used to remove all air and moisture. The filter/drier is replaced on certain occasions if saturated with moisture to ensure a completely moisture-free system. We’re talking about molecules floating around that’s removed in this process. Once a system is evacuated and a complete vacuum exists, another leak test is done to observe for any more leak-backs otherwise repairs are still necessary until a vacuum is held. This vacuum is one of the most important steps that can’t be stressed too much as any leak detected is a guarantee of future problems. Once a vacuum is held and observed this way for more than 15 minutes, refrigerant and make-up oil can be injected to bring a system back to factory conditions. Its always the aim to restore any a/c system back to factory conditions and achieveable by anyone following the rules correctly. Bypassing/shortcutting a/c work just ends up as repeat business for the a/c shops that can now charge more for mistakes.
You can try the second can and most likely your a/c will work but you assume the risks for anything that occurs, sooner or later. The correct way to repairs is to read the following; http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80107. What everyone doesn’t know about airconditioning is that the compressor not only compresses refrigerant gas but the input side is the sací strana; as long as a system remains sealed there’s no chance of air or moisture entering until this system leaks. The more you know.
Připojit Datum: listopad 2003
Místo: San Jose, CA
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
I second the 1.5 lbs guess. I had my AC coolant recharged on May 6 and the shop put in 1.23 lbs. I had 0.27 lbs left, thereby making it 1.5 lbs.
As an aside, 1.23 lbs lost after 10 years of use made me pretty happy.
Založen: Oct 2007
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
Sorry i keep thinking its in my signature. 96 Sc1
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Založen: Feb 2004
Místo: Pittsburgh
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
I agree with 1.5 lbs. Just did it over the weekend. As fdryer stated, you must pull a vacuum before charging. If there is moisture or air in the system, you will ruin it very quickly. Evacuate the system for at least 30 minutes with a good two stage vacuum pump. Close the gauges and make sure the vacuum holds for at least 10 minutes. Then charge it up with 1.5 lbs of pure R134a.
.
94 SL2 Automatic
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Datum připojení: květen 2005
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
A question for frdyer related to internal damage from moisture.
My son’s ’98 SL1 was in an accident that punctured the canister located near the horn. We replaced the canister, and thought we’d have the system properly serviced at a later time. We didn’t realize that moisture from the air, by itself, could do the kind of damage you’ve described. The system has not been run, but whatever humidity was in the air has been in the system for almost 2 years. Is it even worth it to have it serviced now, or should we just consider it a total loss?
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Založen: Feb 2004
Místo: Pittsburgh
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
Původně odeslal saturnhouse
A question for frdyer related to internal damage from moisture.
My son’s ’98 SL1 was in an accident that punctured the canister located near the horn. We replaced the canister, and thought we’d have the system properly serviced at a later time. We didn’t realize that moisture from the air, by itself, could do the kind of damage you’ve described. The system has not been run, but whatever humidity was in the air has been in the system for almost 2 years. Is it even worth it to have it serviced now, or should we just consider it a total loss?
The moisture combined with R134a causes the problem. If the system was opened (no R134a in the system) and then closed back up without R134a there, then the system should be fine. The only thing I would suggest is to replace the dryer before recharging the system. The moisture that was in the system was absorbed by the dessicate in the dryer. Let’s see what our resident AC expert frdyer has to say.
.
94 SL2 Automatic
Připojit Datum: červen 2008
Location: central fla
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
Sorry Browntown if your yr and model were in you siggy and I didn’t notice it. And once i saw Fdryer respond to you, I knew you had gotten good advice. Just a couple points: Per the Saturn dealership parts guys i’ve spoken with the compressors are the same on the 94 -98 S-series cars; per the Haynes A/C manual these systems should take 6.5 oz of Ester oil and 24 oz of r134a refrigerant. Knowing that you had a leak from one of the Schrader valves, get your hands on one of those little valve-screws and take a look at your high/discharge line Shrader valve as well. Turn it just a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, then back clockwise gently and get that one tight also. You could put a tiny bead of red or black Permatex on the OUTSIDE of the S-valves that you’re caps will spin down over just to make sure the caps seal (they’re plastic and overtightening will strip their thread or snap them).
If you don’t have a neighbor, friend, or co-worker with a vacuum pump, i’ve found shop guys who will vacuum down the system for me for 20 bucks. As others mentioned, after it’s vac-ed down for 20 -30 minutes, wait another 10 alespoň to make sure the vac holds. if the gauge starts creeping then something’s still leaking.
If you had a leak you also pushed out some oil. So its’ not possible to know right now how much you have in the system. A S-valve leak isn’t a big one, so you might look around for another source also, back at the Expansion valve, or feel with your fingers the bottom of the compressor, etc. Two more evils—having not enough oil, and having too much. You may have pushed out only half an ounce; you may have pushed out 3 ounces. So grab someone who has gauges while you’re charging w/ the R134a refrigerant. Two entire cans equal the spec 24 ounces. but you have a system that going on 13 yrs so just to be on the safe side, if you have it ‘cold enough’ with 21 or 22 ounces, you might want to hold it there. This is why it’s smart to charge while youre watching gauges, definately on the high/discharge line. The maximum pressure on this side is 210 — 215 (again, per the Haynes specs). But again, if you’ve got cold enough air at 205 — 208, leave it. See if its good enough at the hottest time of the day, another day. Because you pushed out some oil, you might be able to use the entire two 12 oz cans and see pressure on the high/discharge side of 207 — 208 reving the engine at 2,000 plus rpms. Smile and call it done.
mike in scorching central fla
Datum připojení: květen 2008
Location: So. MD
Re: How much refrigerant is needed to completely fill the A/C
I just went through this w/ the 93. I replaced the drier and had the system vacuumed down at a garage, then we charged by weight. I put 1.75 lbs R134a and 5 oz PAG medium weight oil, and had 32 psi low side (idle) and 150 psi high side (also idle). It was about 70-75 ambient. I am going to check off idle when it’s hot out and see what the pressures look like, but it certainly does not look overcharged w/ 1.75 lbs in it.
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This question gets asked a lot. Often most a/c systems are either overcharged or undercharged. Both will cause issues to your a/c system and prevent it from operating correctly. All Classic Auto Air “Smart Series” and “Daily Driver” A/C systems use exactly 24oz. of R134a. When can charging most common can sizes are 12oz. each, be certain to check the can sizes before charging.
LICENSED A/C TECHNICIAN
Pro tyto postupy by měl být využit licencovaný klimatizační technik, aby bylo zajištěno, že váš nový systém bude fungovat na maximum a váš kompresor nebude poškozen.
Váš radiátor/chladicí systém je nedílnou součástí vašeho nového systému. Ujistěte se, že máte směs 50/50 destilované vody a nemrznoucí směsi. Před nabíjením klimatizačního systému musí být topná spirála propláchnuta (cyklický ovládací ventil topení), aby se v topné spirále nenacházela žádná voda (bez nemrznoucí směsi).
Evacuate the system for a minimum of 45 minutes. Your new compressor must be hand turned 15-20 revolutions before and after charging with liquid. Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged. This damage is not covered by warranty.
Your new system requires 24 oz. of R134a refrigerant. Your new compressor comes charged with oil – no additional oil is needed. Ensure that the new belt is tight. Do not charge the system with liquid refrigerant.
CHARGING STATION PROCEDURES
Are you wanting to charge your a/c system with a charging station? Here are some things to keep in mind before you start.
Do not charge this system with the car running! Unlike the common procedures used for late-model vehicles (that have variable-speed compressors), this system cannot be charged with the car running. This is important – failure to follow this warning will most likely result in damaging the compressor.
Do not add oil! All new compressors from Classic Auto Air contain a full system charge of oil. Do not use more than 24 oz. of 134A refrigerant! 1.5 lbs. or 24 oz of R134A is what is required. Hand-turn the compressor 15-20 times after charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged.
HAND CHARGING PROCEDURES
Probably the most common way to charge your a/c system most builders can do this in their own garage. With that being said there is a process to doing it correctly without causing damage.
Do not add oil! All new compressors from Classic Auto Air contain a full system charge of oil. Do not use more than 24 oz. of 134A refrigerant! 1.5 lbs. or 24 oz of R134A is what is required.
Hand -turn the compressor 15-20 times after charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged. Do not shake, tilt or turn the can upside down while charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged and this damage. The refrigerant must come out the top of the can.
TEST THE CONDITIONS
Now that you are done charging testing the a/c system is important. These test conditions will simulate the effect of driving the vehicle and give the technician the three critical readings that they will need to diagnose any potential problems. After the system has been fully charged and tested for basic operation.
Determine the temperature outside of the car. Close all doors and windows on the vehicle. Place the shop fan directly in front of the condenser. Connect gauges or service equipment to high/low charging ports. Place the blower fan switch on medium. Run engine idle up to approximately 1500 rpm.
Acceptable pressure range readings are based on an ambient temperature of 90 degrees with adequate airflow on the condenser. If you have charged the a/c system correctly your pressure readings should be as followed.
High side pressures: 150-275 PSI. Low side pressures: 10-25 PSI (in steady-state)
