Depress Brake Pedal to Start Engine Mazda… If you notice that you have to depress the brake pedal to start the engine, it’s likely that you have a faulty gear selector or a defective Stop/Start button. Depending on the vehicle, a defective gear selector can prevent the car from starting because it can’t send the signal to the engine control unit that the transmission is in Park. A defective Ignition or Stop/Start button could also cause Depress Brake To Start Engine. These two components can be difficult to diagnose without a professional scanner. A defective battery can also be a cause of this problem, as it doesn’t allow the Immobilizer and Body Control Module to function properly.
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Changing the ignition position – depress brake pedal to start engine mazda
Changing the ignition position on your Mazda is a fairly straightforward process. First, you need to remove the engine cover. This is held on with four small tabs and can be easily removed with two hands. After you remove the cover, remove the ignition coils from their sockets. These can be found underneath the steering wheel and can be removed by unscrewing them with a 21 mm socket. If you’re replacing the coils, it’s a good idea to swap them in reverse order.
Next, you’ll want to replace the ignition switch. The ignition switch is located in the ignition barrel. This is important as it turns on the car’s charging, starting, and ignition systems. It also functions as the power switch for many electronic parts in the car. If you have an older Mazda with a broken ignition switch, you’ll need to replace it with a new one. Once you’ve replaced it, be sure to test it out to ensure that it works properly.
Once you’ve done that, you’ll need to make sure the push button start button is pressed. It will switch the ignition to the off, ACC, and on position. Pressing the start button again will switch it back to the ON position. You should also make sure to hold down the clutch or brake pedal to ensure that the car starts.
Checking the battery terminals
When starting a Mazda, check the battery terminals to ensure that they are connected properly. A battery with a good connection will have a voltage of about 12.6 volts when fully charged. A battery with less than that level is likely not able to crank the engine and may be a sign of a malfunction.
Corrosion can affect the battery’s terminals. A simple solution to this is to use baking soda mixed with a little bit of water. This solution will dissolve the corrosion that may be present on the battery’s terminals. It is important to pour the solution over the corroded terminals one at a time, so as not to short the battery out.
If you find that the battery terminals are not connected properly, you can attempt a battery replacement. This is an easy way to ensure that your car will start without a problem. If you find that the problem persists, it’s best to seek the help of a trusted mechanic.
Checking the brake light switch
If your Mazda is losing brake light function, the first step is to check the brake light switch. A bad switch will drain the battery and prevent the vehicle from starting. A problem with the switch can also prevent the transmission from shifting. You can check the switch to determine if there is a problem with the socket connection.
If you cannot find the switch, the next step is to check the continuity of the connections. The brake light switch is typically a hydraulic switch. The switch connects to the master cylinder and brake line. When you hit the brake pedal, the switch is activated by the pressure in the brake fluid. These switches have bullet-style connectors that can get corroded over time. You should clean these connectors first, before replacing the switch.
Another option is to check the fuse box. If the fuse is blown, you may have a problem with the switch itself. If it is not blown, you can try replacing the fuse with a new one that is the same amperage as the original one.
Checking the clutch pedal
If your car struggles to start or jerks while driving, you may be having a clutch problem. A clutch problem is usually the result of worn-out or damaged clutch release mechanism. A bad pilot bearing causes the clutch disc to vibrate and cause a grinding noise when the clutch pedal is depressed.
I disconnected the negative cable at the battery for about 30 minutes as I’m investigating how the high brake light is wired and didn’t want to cause an issue while I was removing side and rear spoilers, lift gate trim, etc. All was going well, and I needed to reconnect the battery to get power back to the brake lights. Reconnected the battery, got signs of life from the dash (although oddly, not the endless «start your car or your battery will go flat» bonging that our cars do). Pressed the start button once, got the «Depress brake to start engine» notice in the center gauge. depressed the brake and pressed again, and the car went dead. No cranking or signs of attempting to start, just black gauges and the sound of (what I’ve always assumed was the) fuel pump spinning down and stopping. Tried again two or three times, same results.
Have I engaged the immobilizer? If so, why won’t my two authentic/valid/functional keys override it?
Hoping this is something simple because of course, the dealer is shut until Monday.
mjmason78 Discussion starter
22 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
Additional info: Just tried again, and noticed that (with either of the car’s fobs in the car with me, the «key present» indicator light on the dash does not turn from red to green when I depress the brake and try to start the car — it stays red. So somehow the car HAS stopped recognizing my fobs (any ideas why?). Is there a way to use the auxiliary key to start the car, as I’ve got to get it moved?
(EDIT: not sure why, but after the second or third attempt at this portion, I was able to get the emergency brake to disengage.)
Related: I’ve used the neutral safety switch to get the car into neutral and the e-brake is (apparently) off, but she won’t budge. Only need to move it a few feet. Any suggestions?
586 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
The emergency start procedure (assuming you have push button start, which it sounds like you do) is to press the fob up to the button, like this:
mjmason78 Discussion starter
22 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
Thanks, appreciate that information, but unfortunately I had already tried that process. No dice, and the indicator light on the pushbutton start won’t turn green at all.
I was able to move the car last night by using the neutral safety switch and disengaging the emergency brake which (like many other functions requiring electricity) appeared to be working fine. Just can’t get the car to crank.
I’ll be calling the dealer for help tomorrow, but unfortunately will need to have it towed there. If anyone has any further insights in the meantime I’d love to hear them.
mjmason78 Discussion starter
22 příspěvků · Připojeno 2021
SOLVED: And silly! Kicking myself a little here because in retrospect it’s all very sensible. just unexpected.
So — picked up a cheap diagnostic code reader to see what I could learn. Not surprisingly, everything checked out OK. But during my experimentation yesterday, things started appearing to get worse — one of the warnings in the center gauge was “Driver Safety Features Partially Disabled, Drive Carefully“ (or very similar).
Well THAT makes sense, I thought, because the area of the car I’d been working in was the high-mounted brake light and if that’s not working, it’s arguably a safety concern. Tested the brake lights by propping the pedal down, and NO brake lights were working.
(Getting clearer now. No brake lights = no “brake is depressed, OK to start the car” = immobilized.) And what can cause zero brake light activity?
A blown 10A fuse, at a mfg cost of $0.001 cents.
Replaced the fuse that governs the brake lights (#17 in the in-cabin fuse panel), and my keys are recognized again, the brake lights all work and we’re back in business. This, after no fewer than four “idiot” lights on the dash yesterday, including ”check engine” and “I-ACTIVSENSE disabled,” etc. etc. Now? None.
Like I say, when I start to think like Mazda (“We’ll do everything we can to make you a safe driver in spite of yourself”) it all makes sense.
Thanks to Quix and any who spent time reading the thread!
