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12-24-02, 09:36 AM
Nováček

spouštěč nití
Založen: Apr 2001
Místo: NYC
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Help — Odyssey PC680 mini battery dead

I have the battery miniaturization kit installed, and my battery is totally dead, can’t even crank at all. Does anybody knows any charger out there that can properly recharge it back?

I did some research on the Odyssey site, and they recommended chargers with an output between 14.2 and 15v. Most of the chargers out there don’t meet this criteria. The Deltran one doesn’t have enough amperage to charge it properly.

12-24-02, 11:18 AM
Tequila? ..it’s like beer

Založen: Mar 2001
Místo: Woodbine, MD
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You can use a charger/starter or another car and jumper cables to get the car started, and then drive it around to charge the battery.. Just don’t stall it. The Deltran chargers aren’t powerful enough to charge the battery from a full discharge, but supposedly make good trickle chargers (I just got their 6 amp onboard trickle charger) I’ve tried charging my battery (PC 925) with a standard charger, and it would never charge well, but driving always charged it well.

12-24-02, 11:59 AM
Plný člen

Založen: Mar 2001
Location: Issaquah, WA, USA
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I have the BMK as well and if I don’t drive my car in the winter for a week or so, the battery will get weak. I have used a regular battery charger with no problems. I’ve had the BMK (with the same battery) for almost 5 years I believe.

I didn’t even know about the restrictions on chargers.
-Scorpio

12-24-02, 12:09 PM
Žije na fóru

Založen: Feb 2002
Místo: Arlington, VA
Příspěvky: 8,969
Obdržel 473 To se mi líbí u 257 příspěvků

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Co je porucha adaptivních světlometů?

I have a PC 925 that i’ve killed before (by leaving lights on). You have to hit these batteries HARD. 25-50 amps. When i killed mine (really dead, wouldn’t jumpstart) the normal 10 amp hard charge wasn’t enough. My charger has a 25 amp setting and 50 amp «start» setting. This is what brought it back to life. Just check it to make sure it doesn’t get hot, and check the voltage, you may have killed a cell.

12-24-02, 07:35 PM
Rotační nadšenec

Datum připojení: prosinec 2001
Umístění: Sunnyvale, CA
Příspěvky: 1,252
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if its discharge, you have to use the full 20A battery charger, not the trickle charge stuff.
mine died once.
the trick is to start and drive around every 2 weeks.

12-25-02, 01:04 AM
Plný člen

Datum připojení: květen 2001
Místo: Maryland
Obdržel 3 To se mi líbí u 3 příspěvků

I had my PC680 die and only show 1.1 Volts. I called BatteryMart and he mentioned most chargers have a safety circuit that will not charge a 12V battery if the voltage is below ~9V. This is to prevent people from hooking a 6V battery to a 12V charger and cooking it. I had put it on my Battery Minder (trickle charger) and no help. After talking with the battery specialist he recommended bringing it to a battery place because they have chargers that will force charge to 14.4V. He said I would have to drive for about 2 hours to recharge using the alternator from my state of discharge. Finally I hooked up a good full size car battery to the PC680 and the trickle charger to the full size battery. The next day all was ok and the trickle charger has kept it at the right voltage ever since.

The following «borrowed» from Brian Chesteen. Rejuvenation instructions for a sulfated battery.

I have been in contact with the folks at the Odyssey battery headquarters. They are very helpful folks. They have instructed batterymart.com to give me credit under warranty for the 6 month old battery.

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They tell me that the primary reason for an Odyssey battery to have the symptoms that my 6 month old and 3 year old battery had was sulfation.

They also gave me a special procedure to follow to desulfate the battery if it can be saved. The prodedure is to discharge the battery at the 5hr rate maximum down to ~10v při zatížení. For the PC680, that is 3 amps max. And then to use the 6 amp Ultimizer to recharge the battery till it goes into trickle mode and to do this as many times as needed as long as the discharge time keeps taking longer than the last cycle.

I found my oldest battery (never threw it out) with a date code of July 09. It was replaced back in the fall of last year due to the same symptoms. I wanted to see if the special procedure could bring this thing back to life. So far I have completed 3 cycles on the battery. The first lasted about 5 minutes, the second almost 2 hours, and the third was well over 4 hours and tonight I plan to try another one. The bottom line is that this procedure seems to be working to revive this battery.

The only thing the support from Odyssey cannot explain is why these batteries are getting sulfated so quickly or at all in this application and with the continuous use of the Ultimizer charger.

I am a bunch more educated about these batteries now and I think the new one is going to last a long time even if I have to perform regular desulfating procedures on it. I still do not plan to keep it on the Ultimizer continuously.

This now reflects the latest info from Brian, as of 1-26-21. The original post stated the battery was to be drawn down to 10v OPEN circuit voltage——that has been updated to reflect the current info from Odyssey to read 10v LOADED circuit voltage.

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Brantel

Dobře známý člen

Odyssey did come back with an answer on what they thought the reason was that I killed these 2 batteries so quickly.

They claimed the problem was sulfation of the battery by being stored (even shortly since I fly almost once a week) at something less than full charge.

Apparently the Odyssey is can sulfate quicker than other types of batteries due to how it is made and how thin the plates are.

Symptoms of this failure mode are apparent full charge voltage but no capacity to do any real work.

They claimed that the issue may have been my constant use of the Odyssey Ultimizer Charger (almost any smart charger will have the same issue).

They said that the Odyssey battery needs to spend a certain amount of time in the absorption phase of the charge. The length of time spent here is dependant on how discharged the battery is. The voltage needs to be at least 14 or more volts during this time. The manuals say 14.7v.

Here is the theory. When using the Odyssey Ultimizer, the charger looks at the voltage of the battery when you turn it on. If the voltage is high enough to start with or rises quickly, the charger will very quickly kick into trickle mode and won’t spend much time in the absorption phase of the charge. Odyssey says this can cause what I experienced due to the fact that the battery is not getting fully charged.

Their recommendation was to always discharge the battery enough that the Ultimizer charger will not think the battery is fully charged quickly after hooking it up and turning it on. This will allow the normal absorption charge cycle to complete properly.

So to recap here are their recommendations:

  • Never store your Odyssey battery (even for just a week, the effect is cumulative) on less than a full charge
  • Never put the battery on the Ultimizer charger unless it is discharged enough to allow the absorption phase to complete properly. If it quickly switches to trickle after you used the battery, most likely it will not be fully recharged.
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I think my habits of doing a ton of avionics tweaking/hangar flying on the ground and constantly just trusting the Ultimizer charger to take care of the battery was what killed my two batteries prematurely. I remember it switching to trickle quickly most times.

Folks that fly often and always fly long enough to allow their alternator to recharge their battery fully after starting may not experience this issue often if ever as long as their main bus volts are up where they need to be.

Folks that have low main bus volts while the alternator is running may have issues prematurely. The manual wants 14.7v. I doubt many of us have that high of main bus voltage while running. Mine runs between 14.2-14.4 and I have an internally regulated PlanePower alternator.

Since learning this info, I always either fly long enough to allow a full recharge or if I use the Ultimizer charger, I always run some load until the surface charge of the battery is burned off. This allows the Ultimizer to spend all the time it needs in the absorption phase. The difference in the time it takes to switch to trickle is significant using this method. So far so good with the replacement battery!