Hi, 2dr 2014 3.6 Willys JK owner and need help please. The coolant system definitely has some air trapped somewhere. Sounded like a waterfall at startup. Dealership said they’d never heard of this. But apparently flushed it. Slightly better. Local shop did a pressure type fill and lots better. But still there.
From what I remember from shop years ago.
1) lift up front end
2) remove cap from radiator when safely cool enough to do so
3) start engine and put heat on high so thermostat opens
4) top off at radiator
Is that still a good starting point?
What else needs to be done? From reading and searching here I’ve seen mentioned:
— relief valves that i need to ensure are tight
— manually burping via squeezing hoses but don’t know which
— checking the heater core but don’t know how
Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
’14 JK Willys auto! Mods: Frankenlift (MC arms, Rancho 9000 shocks, Rock Krawler Springs), 35″ MTR/k’s on MT Baja Classic Locks, AntiRock front, Currie Currectlync HD Steering System. ACE: side steps + flat fenders + front & rear bumpers. Q9500IS winch, Full Metal Fabworks license relocation.
266 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012
That’s what I’d do. I put my front end on ramps, took the rad cap off, started it and transferred coolant rising from the radiator to the overflow. Squeeze the radiator hose as it softens and bring it up to temp. You should get some burps. I fixed mine this way.
2013 Billet JK Rubicon-2.5 Nth Springs/Metalcloak Arms/ARB OBA/LoD Bumpers/Spod.
1390 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
Mine sounded like a waterfall for the first few weeks when it was new and then the sound went away on its own.
Copperhead Pearlcoat 2014 JKU WILLYS Wheeler
24W, premium soft top, tow hitch, Antenna X, McGuard black lug nuts, Mopar cargo slush mat, door sill guards, tail light guards, fuel door, keyed gas cap, Rubi 10A bumpers, 10A rock rails, 10A front skid plate and 10A red tow hooks
Ordered:3/9 ~ Built:4/8 ~ Shipped:4/11 ~ Delivered:4/23
247 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
mine sounded like a waterfall for the first few weeks when it was new and then the sound went away on its own.
WredTJ Discussion starter
867 příspěvků · Připojeno 2013
Thanks much, Mello!!
lanslide, it’s been 2 months already.
’14 JK Willys auto! Mods: Frankenlift (MC arms, Rancho 9000 shocks, Rock Krawler Springs), 35″ MTR/k’s on MT Baja Classic Locks, AntiRock front, Currie Currectlync HD Steering System. ACE: side steps + flat fenders + front & rear bumpers. Q9500IS winch, Full Metal Fabworks license relocation.
152 příspěvků · Připojeno 2014
what makes you think you have air in the system? no heat output? fluctuating temp gauge? gurgling noises?
Chrysler recommends the use of a vacuum generating coolant filling device like an air lift coolant filler
I have never seen any of the other techs at my dealer use one though so I assume it can be done without it and just by the normal way you described.
2305 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011
From what I remember from shop years ago.
1) lift up front end
2) remove cap from radiator when safely cool enough to do so
3) start engine and put heat on high so thermostat opens
4) top off at radiator
Is that still a good starting point?
That’s what I always used to do.
Just an FYI, putting the heat on high doesn’t make the thermostat open. It simply (on some vehicles, depending on the HVAC configuration) opens the heater core and allows coolant to flow through it. This also enables any air to be purged from it.
In fact, opening the heater core causes the thermostat to open later than usual since the heater core reduces the coolant temperature. It is just another heat exchanger like the radiator in the front of the vehicle. Coolant passes through channels inside the heater core and radiator, and heat is transferred to (exchanged with) the air passing over the fins.
With that in mind, if your vehicle’s engine ever begins overheating, turning on the heat to full blast can spare you some time to pull off the road. (Obviously, you need to pull your vehicle over ASAP when your engine overheats.)
Just did a fluid flush and Im keeping the cap off but it seems to be pushing alot of water out the cap once she warms up, and Id say I only have about 2 gallons of anti freeze/ water in it.
Was having overheating issues and replaced stat and flushed out the system as it looked to have some redish gunk in it, flushed it out till everything ran clear. Flushed out with fresh hose water, and I took off the heater core lines and flused that out as well.
1998 Grand Cherokee 2WD Auto. 1st Jeep ever.
20760 příspěvků · Připojeno 2006
elevate the front end. run to operating temp with the cap off. add coolant mix till it runs out. put the cap back on and fill the overflow to the correct line. allow to cool off again and repeat as many times as needed.
playing around with the top coolant hose when it warms up also helps, when it feels solid at operating temp and doesn’t slosh around you’ve pretty much got it taken care of.
’97 zj 5.2, některé věci, některé další věci a některé věci, které dokonce někdy fungují.
373 příspěvků · Připojeno 2012
I have used it on all my vehicles. No more manual burping and fiddling around with the coolant hoses.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L
1MoreMinute Discussion starter
11 příspěvků · Připojeno 2009
Thanks guys! Oh and girl
Got her done and shes good to go.
1998 Grand Cherokee 2WD Auto. 1st Jeep ever.
268 příspěvků · Připojeno 2010
The «proper’ proper way is to top off the radiator and replace the cap, fill the overflow reservoir to the full mark, turn the heater on high, and let it warm to operating temperature. Shut it off and wait for it to cool back down. Refill the reservoir to full, turn the heater on high, let it warm to OT, shut it off and let it cool, rinse, repeat until the reservoir remains full when the the engine has cooled. Usually takes 2 or 3 times. Not turning the heater on when trying to purge the air can leave an air pocket in the heater core.
93 ZJ Laredo AW4 249 D30/D35 Project ZJ
98 ZJ Laredo 42RE 242 D30/D44 DD
9159 příspěvků · Připojeno 2008
Not sure what is proper but my method is to pull the ECT out of the thermo housing and replace it with a 5/16 hose fitting. Put a clear tube on and tape it to the hood. Start filling it up and listen to it whistle out the tube until I see martian blood going up the tube, stop poring, wait a while for it to settle in, then gradually keep topping off until the coolant does not move down when I stop poring. Put ECT back in and wash off with hose. Never had a problem with air.
Y’all do it how you want to, but this works for me.
133 příspěvků · Připojeno 2011
Hoping you guys could help me out here
I replaced the leaking plenum gasket last week also did the bypass hose and thermostat while it was easy to access no it seems the engine isn’t getting up to full operating temperature. I tried the burp process this morning after reading this thread
This is as hot as she’ll run. Too cold right? I’m gonna try burping it with the heat going as suggested above
4686 příspěvků · Připojeno 2007
This is as hot as she’ll run. Too cold right? I’m gonna try burping it with the heat going as suggested above
For me, normal temp is only a little higher than yours. I like to see the needle on the tick before 210 during normal driving, and only actually hitting 210 when idling in traffic.
As for burping, I don’t elevate the front end or squeeze the hoses, I just run the engine with the rad cap off and the heater on; when the coolant stops spitting out of the filler neck I shut down, top it off and then do the same the next day and the day after. Never had any problems.
The FSM technique is even simpler than that — fill the rad, warm up to normal operating temp (with cap *on*), allow to cool, check level and top off if necessary. Repeat two more times.
