How do I use the USB-C port in my car?

This will show you how to add powered USB ports to your car (yaris in this case) and wire one of them to power a phone from the dash to use it as a GPS in your windshield.

I am doing this in a yaris, but it applies to any car.

I will show you how to

1- Add a usb power supply that will be coming out from the dash to power my phone that I use as a GPS when it is attached to the windshield.

2- Add usb ports that can be use to charge directly any usb powered device from the two little unused rectangles under the parking break handle near the current 12v supply

For the circuit part of this (getting the power to the ports), please see my other ible here: https://www.instructables.com/id/12v-to-USB-adapter-12v-to-5v-transformer-great-/

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Step 1: Material

• ostříhá
• kleště s dlouhým nosem
• blesk
• hot glue gun(this is a really nice one if you often need them)
• šroubováky
• soldering iron(I recommend a wireless one for this)
• CAT-5 wiring
• Užitkový nůž
• vrtáky
• 12v to 5v adaptor (either bought, or made as shown in my other ible here) I also recently discovered
  • these really nice pre-built adaptor circuits that are good for integrating in other projects.
  • And similar to above, a 12v-5v converter, but with incredibly high ratings, waterproofing, and a giant heat sink

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  Step 2: Wiring the Car

  I recommend an ethernet cable for this. The reasons are

  1. it has extra protection
  2. it is rigid enough to snake around tight spots, but soft enough to do very tight bends

  Cut off the tip to make it easier to run, but cover the tip with hot glue so that it can’t get hooked as you run it.

  I did remove quite a bit of panelling, and it still took a bit of patience, and a good flashlight. I drew a red line on the pictures to shows approximately where I wired it. Long nose or needle-nose pliers can be useful for reaching.

  Also, please make sure your car is off when you do this.

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  Step 3: Finding Where You Will Put Your Ports

  I had spare «blank» caps in my care as I had a base model, so I chose to use these. I could have drilled directly, but decided to actually cast my own as you can see. You don’t need to do this, but just showing that there are a lot of options. You can see my mold in blue.
  Once that is done, you can secure your USB ports in place. If you are using header USB ports with long wires, you might even want to just have the wire come out as is, and keep it flexible.

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  Step 4: Connect Your USB Ports

  You now have to connect your USB ports to your 5v power supply, whatever one that may be.

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  Step 5: Add Your Dash-USB Cable

  Pick 2 wires from the inside the ethernet cable we ran earlier (once it has been cut at both ends with about 1-2 feet of slack). Remembrer what colour your pick, and add solder a USB port to the wire on the top end. On the bottom end, connect the pair of wires to your power supply.

  To finish it all up, I tucked the usb port well into the dash and pulled the steering wheel up to clamp the port in place.

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  18 Komentáře

  Otázka před 2 lety

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  I want to do this, and feel confident in all steps bar one; where do you get the power from? Clearly you wire it into a powered circuit, or wire. where do I splice a power wire, or add one?

  Odpověď před 2 lety

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  Look at the last picture in the «Step 2» photos.

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  to author. does the 7805 give off any heat? If it does is it a small enough amount that I wouldn’t need to include a heatsink?

  Odpověď před 13 lety na Úvod

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  the one I used has alot of heat, the integrated heatsink is enough for it to work, but adding an extra one would not be a bad idea, it has been reported to help out, and just about any computer heatsink with a screw-hole will work. If you got for a slightly more expensive transistor (like 1-3$ more) you can get a much more efficient one that will give off almost no heat.

  Odpovědět před 6 lety

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  The best heat sink in your car is all over, and that is the massive quantity of steel (steel doesn’t have as high a heat transfer coefficient as the usual aluminum heat sink, but it has a very high specific heat, making it an excellent heat sink for tiny heat loads like these) in the center console, dash, and unibody.

  First, check (as in, with a multimeter) to make sure that whatever heat sink you have on your regulator doesn’t have a voltage potential to your car’s chassis (bare steel which you’ll screw into). This should be tested when the regulator is in operation. In my experience, heat sinks are usually either attached to the package ground or they’re insulated electrically from the board.

  Once you know it isn’t going to cause an electrical short, simply attach the existing regulator heat sink to the car’s chassis with something that conducts heat!

  Odpověď před 13 lety na Úvod

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  can you suggest a more efficient one?

  Odpověď před 13 lety na Úvod

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  Certainly, these TSR-12450 are much more efficent. http://www.tracopower.com/fileadmin/medien/dokumente/pdf/datasheets/tsr1.pdf However, like other highly efficient ones, they have a lower maximum amperage, so you should use a 1amp fast blowing fuse (this means 2 ports in use MAX and even that depends on your device). They are also much harder to find, I could only find them here for 10 euros each. http://www.conrad.de/ce/ProductDetail.html?hk=WW2&insert=U1&WT.mc_id=epro&productcode=156673&zanpid=1402519872037980160 A heatsink on L7805’s is definitely a great very viable and safe option, but if you can get your hands on something like the ones I pointed to, then all the better for you! good luck!

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  So, I’m planning to use the DROK 20A 100W High Current DC Buck Converter and I see that it’s output is just under 5 volts and 20 amps. How do I lower the amperage, without dropping the voltage, so I do not fry my rechargable devices?

  Odpovědět před 6 lety

  Odpovědět Hlasujte pro

  The 20A is essentially the max the buck converter will output without frying when actively cooled (I would say that if it’ts not ventilated, run it at 30% of max if you can, no more than 50%). Whatever you plug into it will draw a certain amount of current, and that will be controlled by your devices. What you may want to do is put a fuse or breaker that caps the draw at whatever you feel comfortable. When calculating, I would say that phones usually have a max draw of 1.5-2A, and tablets can go 2-2.5. If you are making sure you plug no more than 10A draw in total, then those ballpark figures are more than enough. If you are going in higher amperage in total, make sure that the wire is thicker, especially if it starts getting longer than a few inches.

  Last think, make sure it’s a switching converter, not like the one I used (which is fine for the lower amount of energy used at 5-15w)

  If you’re reading this, it’s a safe bet that you own both a car and a smartphone. And, if I’m going to be presumptuous, it’s likely that you have your smartphone in your car whenever you’re driving somewhere a that you probably want to charge your phone when you’re in your car.

  But this isn’t always an easy endeavor, especially if you have a brand new car. So here’s a quick walkthrough of the various USB plugs you might find in your new car — as well as the various plugs you might find on your smartphone.

  The 2020 Honda CR-V Hybrid has only USB-A ports up front, alongside a wireless charging pad.The automaker labels these ports with their available charging power.Photo courtesy of American Honda Motor Co., Inc.

  The standard rectangular USB that’s available in most cars from the past ten years is called the USB-A outlet. It’s the one that’s particularly frustrating because you’ll inevitably try to insert the plug upside down. It’s pretty universal, and, depending on your car, will either provide just power or (more likely) will let you play music and other audio through the stereo system.

  One thing to note is whether it’s a “high-power” port or not. Some newer vehicles will output up to 2.4 amps from their port, while older (or cheaper) cars will provide much less power. It’s even possible that, if you’re using the GPS on your phone for example, it might not even offer enough power to actually charge up your phone.

  The USB-A is the most common and universal plug — but there’s something new that you’ll be seeing more and more.

  Newer vehicles (and newer computers) might have the newest and fanciest USB-C plug. It has rounded edges and is much smaller, more useful, and more powerful than the older USB-A plug.

  The 2020 Toyota RAV4 Adventure hides its AUX ad USB-A ports below a labeled hatch in the center console.Photo courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A. Inc.

  First, and perhaps most importantly, you’ll never insert your cable upside down ever again — it works whichever way you plug it in, which is particularly useful. Second, it’s capable of providing much more power to your device, charging it much, much faster than the USB-A port if your car supports it — and some USB-C outlets might even be able to power a laptop.

  Regardless of which plug you have in your car, high-quality cables are essential and are extremely cheap. I prefer Anker’s Powerline cables, and they come in a huge variety of colors, lengths, and types. If you have an iPhone, you can get a three-foot Anker USB-A to Lightning cable for under $10 each, and a USB-C to Lightning cable for a few dollars more than that. Spare cables are always a nice thing to have, and these are some of the best you can buy.

  If you have an Android, things are slightly more complicated because there are a few different possibilities for what plug your phone might have. There are a few options, but double check which plug your phone has before you buy and you’ll be prepared for whichever USB port your new car has!

  Finally, there are adapters that allow you to go from USB-C to USB-A to use your old cables with the new-fangled outlets on the new car, but they’re as much as a replacement cable would be, so you’re better off just buying a new, high-quality cable for about ten bucks.

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