Does your washing machine refuse to spin or agitate? Are you unable to start the washer at all? A faulty lid or door lock is the most common cause of this malfunction. Many top-load washing machine models require the lid to be fully closed before the wash cycle can begin and most top-load models require the lid to be locked before the tub begins spinning or agitating. Zobrazit vše front-load washers require the door to be locked before the appliance will start at all.
Testing the washing machine’s lid or door lock will let you know if this part has failed and needs to be replaced. Read on as we take you through the testing procedure so you can properly diagnose your washer’s problem and fix the appliance quickly.
What does the washer’s lid or door lock actually do
Before we explain the lid or door lock testing method, let’s address what the washer’s lid or door lock actually does.
Top-load washers have a lid switch
Top-load washing machines will have a lid switch that needs to be activated before the tub will spin. Since the switch is activated by the lid’s strike being inserted into a latch or lock assembly when the lid is closed, this is the washer’s way of ensuring the spinning tub won’t harm a child’s arm or pet because the lid was inadvertently left open. When the lid switch is activated, an actuator will prevent the lid from opening and voltage will be allowed to travel to the drive motor or stator/rotor assembly to spin the tub; if the switch is not activated by the lid being closed, voltage will not be sent to the drive motor or stator/rotor assembly and the tub will not spin.
Front-load washers have a door lock switch
The door on front-load washers needs to be closed and locked before a wash cycle will even begin. Once the laundry is loaded and the temperature and cycle options are chosen, the control or timer will lock the door. For this to happen, the door strike needs to be firmly inserted into the door lock assembly. This triggers a door lock switch which activates an actuator to secure the door. When this happens successfully the control will be allowed to send voltage to the water inlet valve to open and fill the tub with water. If the door isn’t fully closed, the switch won’t be triggered and the washer will not start.
How to test a washer lid or door lock
If the washer lid or door is fully closed, but the appliance will not start, or not spin or agitate, it’s likely the switch in the lid or door lock has failed. To help troubleshoot this issue first confirm the lid or door actually locks during operation and the lock indicator light (if applicable) is illuminated. If the lock does not appear to be functioning, you can use a multimeter to test the lock assembly’s solenoid coil for electrical continuity, a continuous electrical path present in the coil that actuates the pin to lock the lid or door. Here’s how you can perform the test:
- Unplug the washing machine’s power cord from the wall outlet to avoid electrical shock when disassembling the appliance.
- Remove the top-load washer’s control housing or the front-load washer’s top panel to access the appliance’s control board.
- Refer to the washer’s wiring diagram to identify the location of the lid or door lock wire connector.
- Disconnect the lid or door lock wire connector from the control board.
- Rotate the multimeter’s range selection dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance.
- Contact the black and red meter leads to the appropriate connector terminals.
- Observe the multimeter reading. If the display indicates a reading between 50 and 150 ohms of resistance, the lid or door lock’s solenoid coil has proper electrical continuity and should be functioning. Keep in mind, even if the coil tests positive for continuity the status switch within the lock assembly could still be faulty and the entire assembly will need to be replaced. However, if the meter display indicates the solenoid coil has no electrical continuity you’ll know for sure the coil has failed and a new lid or door lock assembly will need to be installed to fix the problem.
Washing Machine Lid/Door Lock Testing
Washing machine repair know-how courtesy of Repair Clinic
As your repair partner, Repair Clinic has the repair know-how you need to successfully fix your washing machine. Just enter the appliance’s full model number in the Repair Clinic website’s “Videos & Articles” search bar to find model-specific guides, schematics, and step-by-step procedural videos, such as this one showing the proper way to install a new lid lock assembly on a Whirlpool Top-Load Washer (Model WTW7120HW0) or this one demonstrating how to replace a defective door latch assembly on an Electrolux Front-Load Washer (Model EIFLS60JIW1).
Repair Clinic recommends genuine parts to fix your washing machine
If you need to install a new door lock assembly, lid strike, or any other washer component, Repair Clinic recommends purchasing a genuine original equipment manufacturer (OEM) replacement part instead of a generic non-OEM part. While genuine parts are specifically designed to work with the model they’re built for, generic parts may not be completely compatible with the appliance or could be made from inferior materials that can wear out prematurely. Repair Clinic.com is the website to find original manufacturer replacement parts that match the most popular top-load and front-load washer models, including those built by Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, Maytag, GE, Kenmore, Bosch, and Frigidaire. Entering the full model number of the appliance in the Repair Clinic search bar will result in a comprehensive list of compatible OEM parts related to that model. You can then use the “Part Category” and “Part Title” filters to narrow that list down to find the exact part you need to fix your washer.
In this Whirlpool washer lid switch repair guide, I will walk you through testing and replacing lid switches on whirlpool direct drive washers as well as the new belt driven models known as the VMW or vertical modular washer.
If you are unsure if your washer is a VMW or a direct drive its simple, if your model has a lid lock then you have a VMW model and if not you more than likely have a direct drive model.
Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch Repair For Direct Drive Models
Whirlpool washer lid switch failures are along some of the most common direct drive washer problems I run across in the field. This section will help you diagnose and replace lid switches.
If your Whirlpool direct drive washer will fill with water, agitate but will not spin, the lid switch may be bad. Some models are designed to only wash with the lid down; therefore, yours may not wash or spin and still have a lid switch problem.
The quickest way to diagnose a Whirlpool washer lid switch i s to place the washer into a spin mode, open the lid then insert a screwdriver down into the lid switch actuator whole. If the washer will run when you do this but will not run with the lid closed, then you know the lid switch is bad. What happens is the lid switch will come apart causing the actuator to be pressed down further in order to make the contacts in the switch. Eventually the actuator on the lid will not press the switch far enough to make the switch contacts but when you press a screwdriver down into the hole you make the switch.
If this test fails to produce a result, you will have to perform a continuity test with an ohmmeter.
Disconnect power to the washer.
Access the control panel. Removing two screws on each end of the control panel does this. On some models the screws are on the back, on some models the screws are on the front exposed and on some models the screws are on the front behind a cover. Some models don’t have screws to access the control panel so, take a putty knife and force it under the front corners of the control panel to release the clips.
Once you have accessed the control panel you will see a plug going into the washer case in the center or on some models you will see the lid switch on the left-hand side. In either case there will be a three-wire plug, disconnect this plug.
Using an ohmmeter test for continuity between the two outside wires on the plug (on the washer case side). Be sure this test is being done with the lid closed. If you have continuity then the switch is ok and if the circuit is open then the lid switch is bad.
From here all you have to do in order to replace a Whirlpool washer lid switch is remove the two brass clips that hold the case of the washer in place and remove the case. Once the case is removed you can access the lid switch and replace it.
For more help watch this Whirlpool washer lid switch repair video I made.
Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch Repair For VMW Models
If you get no response when you press the start button on your VMW model then the lid lock may be your problem.
The Whirlpool VMW washer utilizes a lid lock, which locks the lid during operation. The lid lock is a safety device to protect the operator from harm. Because the washer doesn’t have brakes it takes up to 30 seconds for the washer tub to come to a stop, which can be dangerous for anyone that opens the lid during a spin cycle. On washers that have brakes (such as the direct drive models) the tub will come to a complete stop within a few seconds posing no threat to the operator. Therefore, washers with brakes don’t need locks and washers with locks don’t need brakes.
The lid lock consists of a lid switch, a lock switch, a lock solenoid and a locking mechanism. The lid switch senses when the lid is down, which tells the control board that it can initiate a cycle or lock the lid. Once the lid is closed and a cycle is started, the control will send voltage to the lock solenoid to lock the lid. Once the lid is locked, the lock switch will sense the lid is locked and the lid lock light will be illuminated on the control panel. If any of these components fail, the lid will not lock and the washer will not start a cycle. To test the lid lock mechanism odpojte napájení and access control board.
Note that before you test the lid lock, make sure the lid lock strike isn’t broken. The strike is located on the lid itself and if it breaks the lid will not lock. If this is the case replace the strike.
Also note that if someone has forced the lid open when the lid was locked the mechanism is broken in the switch internally and cannot be tested. If this is the case replace the lid lock.
Once you have accessed the control locate and disconnect the plug on the board marked J15. The J15 plug will be a four-wire plug with a red, white, blue and yellow wire.
The first test you perform is the lid switch test. With the lid down, test for continuity between the white wire and the blue wire. If the circuit is open replace the lid lock.
The next test is the lid lock solenoid. Test for ohms between the white and yellow wires. You should get between 85 and 155 ohms. If not replace the lid lock.
The lid lock switch cannot be tested but if it were bad the control will attempt to lock the door and the door will actually lock. However, the lid lock switch will not “tell” the board the lid is locked therefore the lid lock light will not illuminate and the control will not start the cycle. To sum it up if the lid lock light will not illuminate but the lid does lock then the lid lock switch is more than likely bad.
Accessing The Lid Lock
This section of the Whirlpool washer lid switch repair guide I will walk you through accessing the lid lock on a whirlpool VMW modes for replacement. To access the lid lock you must lift the top of the washer up, to do so follow these instructions.
First disconnect power to washer.
Next pull the washer out to access the rear of the washer. On the back of the washer you will see a wiring harness-cover, remove it.
Now, go back around to the front of the washer and pull the top forward about ½ inch.
Then lift up on the top about ¼ inch.
While still keeping the top up ¼ inch, push it back about ¼ inch and it should release. Once it releases you should be able to tilt the top up on the rear hinges.
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